XIV - Visitors on the Lycian Coast.
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XIII - Antalya Körfezi II.
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XV - The long road journey from Kas, Turkey back to the UK.
Log Entry Friday 13th September - We drive up to Altanya, Peters visit is over so quickly.
Today we plan to drive to Antalya, spend the evening there and drop Peter off at the airport early in the morning, on the way we will stop off at the ancient ruins of Phaselis.
We pick Peter up and beginning the 3 hour trip north by road, it is mainly a slow and winding road, but all of the usual interesting things to keep your mind occupied.
There is always something going on on these roads, a real positive if the ice cold fountains of fresh mountain spring water available to the users.
As we follow the coastline we pull over for lunch in one of the small roadside cafes, this one over looking the landward side of Olympos, large birds of prey hover ahead, possibly eagles? We had initially planned to take Peter to Olympos but after visiting both recently, the choice was easy - there was far more of interest to see at Phaselis.
We have a little difficulty finding it at first it is not as well signposted as Olympos, but after a minor detour we drive into the car park off the old Northern Harbour. Although nearby finds believed to prove that this area was inhabited during prehistoric times, Phaselis can only be traced as far back as 7th B.C. It has always a trading centre and was founded by a colony of people from Rhodes, over the centuries even through Roman times a great trading centre, constantly at war with pirates trying to secure their wealth.
The cities needs for fresh water was met by an aqueduct and a series of cisterns and wells developed over time, impressively a lot of the aqueduct still stands today.
The whole central area is very impressive, mostly Roman remains, the network of sewerage and drains can still be made out in places. The main centre is based around "Harbour Street" and a central square, the paved roadway joining both north and south harbours.
In the centre is a medium sized theatre, still in use at times today a musical venue.
Harbour Road continues on down to the South Harbour, it's route lined with artifacts.
The South Harbour was where we visited with Sailaway some weeks before, still busy with trip boats and beach dwellers.
After the tour we returned back to the car, replenished with cold water from the cafe and rejoined the road to Altanya.
Altanya is a busy city, with all of the associated issues, our Satnav was good until we tried to enter the old sector, one way systems were challenging to say the least. On entrance you are given a ticking, parking is very expensive, especially overnight but we were informed that if we could prove we stayed in one of the dwelling it was free.
With the car parked up we wandered around the small narrow walkways, many of them too small for vehicles but every one seems to manage, it was an interesting place.
We came across "The Korkut Mosque," it's foundations said to be dated back to the 2nd Century, saturated in history it was constantly used as a place of worship until 1896 when it was extensively damaged by fire.
After all of that, all that was left was to find a place for dinner and enjoy the evening. That is exactly what we did, even the annoying efforts of the proprietor to pump us with Raki and get us into his adjacent carpet shop did not spoil the evening. We had a great evening, good, well priced food and we did not go into the carpet shop!
Peter is on an 0815 flight in the morning back to the USA, safe trip, glad he enjoyed his visit.
Log Entry Thursday 12th September - We return back to Kas, Peter's visit almost over.
Ann and I get Sailaway ready to move, the prevailing winds will be against us but we have all day to cover the twenty miles so there is no hurry to depart. The forecast, however, is for very light winds so we will see what happens? As we work we notice a couple of curious turtles around, Peter unfortunately misses them too!
Time passes, no wind develops so we start the engine and begin our return trip, Peter gets lucky and catches a turtle on film as we exit the Roads though the east channel.
The trip back was very uneventful, no wind, we motored all of the way, it is hot enough without the additional heat from the engine. Ann makes an excellant suggestion, we will stop of in one of the bays, "Bayindir Limani", just south of Kas Harbour and cool down in the water before returning to the marina.
We drop our anchor and spend a few hours there, with evening approaching we raise our anchor and make our way across Kas Limani towards the peninsula. We are lucky enough to catch a seaward glimpse of Antiphellos, the theatre we had visited earlier.
Once around the peninsula we enter Buçak Deniz and make our way into the marina.
We make Sailaway secure and head into town for dinner another good day behind us.
It is already dark by the time we get into town, this is Peter's last night in Kas, so, obviously we celebrate, tomorrow we head for Altanya.
Log Entry Wednesday 11th September - A long and interesting day, well celebrated at the end!
Up early as usual, always plenty to see no matter what the time? We have a lot to squeeze into today, we plan to visit the "Sunken City" on the inner shore of Kekova Adasi, a result of the numerous earthquakes seen in this area over the centuries, after the sunken city we will visit Köy Castle.
Peter too is up relatively early giving him the time to wander around Üçagiz before our arrival.
Our starting point today in our dinghy is Tersane Bay, a miniature cove on the inner/landward shore of Kekova Adasi, we have about 1.5 miles to cover from the anchorage to Tersane.
We arrive at the cove, already busy with tourist traffic, a small beach at it's head.
Just off the beach a derelict church, a haunting memorial to Christianity and it's struggle here
We leave the shore and head into the narrow island, your imagination runs wild as you consider the magnitude of these ruins and the possible death and destruction associated with it? The main attraction for the tourists on a tight schedule is the church ruins, we continue far on into the ruins as they come and go, at least we have the place almost to ourselves.
The temperature and sun is now rising so we make our way back to the dinghy, refuel our small engine and make our way through the now crowded cove.
We begin our way along the shore, viewing the remains of what sank into the water.
It is fascinating to see and amazing as to how little is written about what was once such a large settlement possible believed to be ancient "Simena".
We carefully make our way through the passing boats and their cargo, tourists, eventually we turn and head across the Roads over to Köy Castle. As we approach, as is the norm, we are waved into one of the restaurant quays by one of the proprietors.
It is a very relaxing setting, we start with fluids and chatter, which in time spreads into a very light lunch. Once digested, the climb to the Castle is calling, I am left behind to look after the cats, clearly I am in one of their seats?
It is quite a steep climb up the hill, along the narrow pathways, no vehicles here, and of coarse the expected stalls trying to sell their goods.
As the summit approaches the surrounding views improve in all directions.
Lycian burial tombs for which this area is famous are every where, some earlier than the time of Alexander.
Eventually the summit is reached, Peter and Ann stand by the flag and tower that over hang our anchorage
Now, the easier leg, down hill and further refreshments
I fuel up the engine once again, that;s my job, unknown to Ann and Peter, my fingers are crossed to ensure we have enough fuel left to get back, I empty the canister into the engine and say a few short words! We head back amongst the rocks, small islets and ruins, it is great to see a second day of gullets at sail, we arrive at Sailaway without issue and break out the beer to celebrate our safe return.
We spend the rest of the afternoon and evening aboard Sailaway, Ann does proud with the spread as usual, Peter is some what taken by the lack of chicken shish?.
Log Entry Tuesday 10th September - We have play time as we await the winds and make for Kekova.
One last look around Meis, every time you look you see some thing different, not sure whether this cat was fed or just lucky?
In the dinghy we pop into the old Mandraki Harbour, used now by small private shallow draft vessels and then back to Sailaway.
We have time to kill, so in the water we go, on the return leg Ann whipped Peter, Peter claims not have known it was a race - typical man!
With good wind developing it is time to move on, the next leg will take us down to Kekova, and Üçagiz Limani. We have a stiff wind through the islands, the time passes very quickly.
We soon have the twenty miles or so behind us and enter Kekova Roads through the west entrance, Köy Castle always a good backdrop, great to see gullets moving under canvas too!
We settle in the very crowded Üçagiz Limani, it is the busiest we have seen it this year, good for local trade. Peter takes the first anchor watch, we always sit for an hour or so to ensure our anchor is secure, especially today as the wind continues to stiffen. It is extremely tiring Peter relaxes?
When Peter eventually wakes up and he is confident that Sailaway sits securely we drop the dinghy and head ashore, after all it is nearly dinner time.
We introduce Peter to our friend Mehmet, they are a little disappointed to see so many vessels at anchor but so few in the town. We settle down for a good evening and gossip well into the early hours. The chicken shish reaches expectations once again, I promise not to mention "chicken shish" again, Peter must hate me?
Log Entry Monday 9th September - Peter's first port of call!
We again meet up with Peter around 1000 hours, we have plenty of time to allow the prevailing winds to develop, after all Peter's here to sail not motor. After lunch we, aboard Sailaway, leave the marina and Peter takes us down Buçak Deniz into open water, well as open as it can be considering the islands locally, offshore.
Canvas up, engine off - perfect! We spend a few hours "playing" and chatting, good weather, good sailing, nothing better.
Our plan is to overnight on the Greek island of Kastellórizon just off the Turkish coast line, in time we make for the island.
We let our headsail take us into the small anchorage, Limani Mandraki, eventually we roll the headsail up and start the engine and secure Sailaway under the castle ruins.
We prefer this location as to entering the small harbour of Meis, to the east a small taverna on St Georges Beach, a very nice setting.
One or two less significant vessels join us as we drop our dinghy and prepare for the trip ashore - Peter's first trip to Greece!
The harbour is small, quaint and Greek that is probably the best way to describe it? It is hard to see how these Greek inhabitants have remained so with such close proximity to Turkey, the island is serviced by large ferries from Rhodes. Kas (Turkey) and Meis (Greece) share the same tourists with ferries running too and fro - immigration control seems very relaxed from both sides, toughening up would obviously damage both towns from a financial point of view.
It has been said the the island population was diminishing and that Greece would eventually turn it over to Turkey, it is good to see the refurbishment of building everywhere, the population now increasing and therefore remaining Greek!
The photographs speak for themselves as we wander around the small town.
There is also a small airport on the island, up high on a small plateau over looking Meis, a pathway takes you high up to view the surrounding area - too hot for us to tackle that!
We eventually settle at one of the waterside restaurants, we are told we have to wait for the chef to have her shower so we settle for liquid refreshment to pass the time. We are occasionally visited by a large old turtle which pops up out of the water alongside our table. Peters quest is to get photographs but concentration falls as the evening progresses.
As the food was served and tables cleared it becomes clear as to why the turtle visits, a lot of the waste food from the tables is thrown into the water and digested by the turtle and fish. I have absolutely no doubt that by now the turtle is a lot faster than Peter and his camera, a great night!
Log Entry Sunday 8th September - Peter arrives, a restful day spent in Kas.
Peter arrived late last night around 10pm, we met up "fed and watered" then turned in, Peter to catch up on his sleep. We meet him for a late breakfast at the Kas Otel, an excellant setup, the restaurant over looking Kas Limani and over to the Greek island of Kastellórizon, very picturesque.
We spend time drinking coffee and catching up on the twelve months that have passed since we last met. Today is to be a lazy day, a wander around Kas, meet Sailaway again and relax, tomorrow we going sailing.
Along the narrow lane heading out onto the peninsula, past the hospital lies the ancient theatre, "Antiphellos", a good easy start to the day. Clearly rebuilt for the tourists, but interesting all the same, the views good too. Built from local limestone and dating back to the 1st Century B.C., it stands on the south slope of Akropolis Hill. The theatre originally contained 28 rows of seats holding around 4000 spectators, rebuilt and modernised over the centuries.
As we walk back to the town I draw Peter's attention to the hospital "Morg" next to the cafe in the Hospital grounds - "Perhaps they use the same refrigeration?"
We are very soon into the town and the harbour area, clearly heavily dependant on tourism it boasts a permanent population of around 7000 people.
The harbour area is very attractive, we sit in the shade to replenish our fluids and chat, later after lunch we meet up with Ian & Adrianne our good friends.
The day passes quickly, we take Peter up to the marina and re-associate him with Sailaway, then it's back down town to grab some dinner, Peter is very quickly developing a fancy for "Chicken Shish", the small Kebab cafes are an excellant source.