Turkey VII - The Carian Coast, Marmaris to Bodrum.
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Turkey VI - Marmaris, Turunç, Ekinçik and Dalyan.
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Turkey VII - The Carian Coast II, Marmaris to Bodrum.
Log Entry Sunday 17th June - The Datça South Bay beach is quite impressive.
We had notice while sitting on Sailaway a small fresh water river running through the beach and into the sea. The volume is sizable as the reduced temperature in the sea from the fresh water running down from the mountains is noticeable. As you swim you pass through sections of warm and cooler waters, the fresh/salt water mix is evident as one can see the resulting haze when you put your head under the water. We have to pick up fresh fruit and salad from the town today, we go ashore early so as to miss the mid afternoon heat, we thought we would check out the beach before we shop?
The beach is a recent redevelopment, by "damming" the river they have created a very picturesque setting for the cafes and restaurants that service the beach. One cafe even had a small library and reading area in the shade. From Sailaway we are able to see the children jumping into the small fresh water lake behind the dam.
We also find the ducks we can hear through out the day, they are attracted to Ann, we think believing food to be on the way?
This beach is certainly an attractive area to spend the day.
Log Entry Saturday 16th June - We visit Datça in the evening.
We decide to visit the town quay this evening, the strong winds at night seemed to have moved on for a few days at least, so we feel able to leave Sailaway at anchor on her own. The town quay is small, no more than five cafes/bars on the immediate waterfront, lots behind. We pick the busiest to take a table and enjoy a couple of night caps. The quay is not busy at all, none of the bars are full, still plenty to occupy our minds as we enjoy the time. Alcohol in Turkey is very expensive to purchase in restaurants, bars and cafes, not sure how that works as it is far less costly in shops and supermarkets - I guess they charge what people will pay? We have noticed that most things are more expensive here than any where else we have been, certainly up to twice the price of Marmaris - much better setting though!
Log Entry Saturday 16th June - Plenty going on at Datça!
You may have determined from the log entries, very little happens around us without Ann noticing? This morning we had not even put our heads above decks when we are disturbed by a loud "bang!" It was close, but not us which was a good thing, we climbed into the cockpit to see what was going on? A small, French flagged vessel had tried to sail out of the anchorage, over powered by the strong gusts it had been driven into the side of the Austrian flagged vessel behind us. There was clearly damage as the Austrian skipper was tying the offending vessel along side - out the insurance paperwork. Within 30 minutes or so the french vessel was released and this time used his motor to leave the anchorage without further issue. It was explained later by the Austrian that they had settle on a €200 cash settlement, both seemed happy.
The French vessel raised it's sails and left, or so we thought? Within an hour they were back, this time making their way into the harbour where trying to tie back to the wall they became entangled in the movements of a gullet and power boat - not their day I guess?
Ann and I woke this morning to find that the same French vessel had left the wall late last night and anchored behind us, we wondered if we should put our fenders out ready for them leaving?
Any way, back to today, the winds are forecast to be strong all day and through the night, with gusts up to 25 knots, we would sit it out here as we planned to visit Knidos next where shelter was limited? So, leaving Sailaway at anchor we went ashore to have a look around, we planned to spend a few hours ashore this evening but that was later cancelled as the winds grew in strength further.
The town, clearly a tourist resort is under going a massive redevelopment, every thing appears new with property, mainly apartments springing up every where accompanied with the associated agents trying to sell them!
We walked through the town and returned to the water front above the "North Bay", itself a busy tourist area, except without the tourists? Every one we speak to are proclaiming that it is very quiet, a real shame when one considers how many people are employed in an industry with such a short period to make their months, basically, or rather normally three good months. We hear from friends in many different locations in other countries that the situation is the same there?
After a cooling drink we return to the old part of the town, off which Sailaway sits. The temperatures are now in the mid to high 30C's - too hot to walk in!
It is time for further refreshments, this time on the deserted, south quay, rows of trip boats waiting for clients.
After returning to Sailaway and cooling off in the water we watch the arrival of a true "Super Yacht", it's hull so highly polished one can see the reflection of the support rib as it passes along side, just like a mirror. The skipper and crew try for almost an hour to tie up on the harbour wall, then they eventually left the harbour and anchored off shore, tying back to the outside of the harbour wall - just too big perhaps?
Log Entry Friday 15th June - We move on, over to Datça Yarimadasi.
We sit in the cockpit Wednesday evening after dinner, all the preparation for our departure early in the morning complete. We are moving over to Datça, on the Datça Yarimadasi, it is but a short trip of twenty miles or so but they are forecasting that the "Meltemi" will reach over twenty knots early afternoon. This would probably be a "head wind" for our trip so we decide to avoid it - we, and Sailaway hate "Mediterranean Headwinds!" hence the planned early departure. As the sun drops out of the sky we are surrounded with a fantastic setting, as darkness fell we watched electric storms pass us to the east, lighting up the sky - that was not forecast!
We rise about 0600 to a dull, colourless sky, not the typical blue today. We check the weather before we make last preparations to leave, guess what, the strong winds later today have disappeared. We now have two options, we either leave early as planned, or go back to bed - we decide to leave early as planned.
We make our way south, out of the gulf via the southerly route in which we came, little signs of life around?
The livestock were on the wander of coarse, and the fishermen at work with their drift nets, the "free end" marked only by a simple white float. At times, due to the numbers of floats and small boats around, it was difficult to determine which way the nets lay, but the guys were helpful enough.
Once in open water one could relax again, or so I thought - I noticed that our ensign had not been unwrapped from the previous evening. We wrap it for two reason, we have a security light mounted on the rear (Bog eyes, we call it) the flag trips the senor, lighting up Sailaway needlessly? The second reason is simply to increase the flag's life, with the UV and "flogging" from the winds one is lucky to get a full year, even from a quality purchase? I was discussed at thought of us moving in the water with a "wrapped ensign!" I reprimanded Ann because she was the only other person there, she apologised of coarse, which I accepted and allowed her to regain face by putting the kettle on - she will not let that happen again!
It is always interesting to look around as one travels, with the engine on due to the complete lack of wind there is nothing else to do - Ann is engrossed in her latest book - some Ross Kemp nonsense? On the coastline, in the middle of no where stands a gullet ashore, high and dry, being worked on - I could not even make out a road, or track servicing the area?
Ahead of us we could make out the Greek islands of Simi and Tilos, we were to pass by the north east tip of Simi, over to Datça
Simi looked an interesting place, high above the town some form of mining was being undertaken in quite a professional manner I must say?
It was some hours before we saw our first pleasure craft, a light, favourable breeze began to develop, up went our canvas and off went the dreaded engine. The winds were enough to give us 2 knots if we worked the sails, nothing else to do, and now, no apparent urgency to arrive?
Ann remained engrossed in her book, periodically providing me with updates, she had just escaped certain death, killing, bare handed three of her captors - sounds very "East Enders" to me, still if it keeps her happy?
Soon we could clearly make out "Knidos" off the peninsular, our next place to visit, as we passed "Unzunca Adasi" the water passing under Sailaway turned a deep blue.
The wind eventually died completed as we approached the land, we made our way into the "South Bay" and dropped anchor just off the cordoned swimming area running parallel to the beach. It was quiet, only one other vessel in the small anchorage, the small harbour being also, relatively empty.
That was until about 1700, boats began coming in from all directs, all different craft also, the gullets were taking no prisoners making there way into the harbour. All of a sudden the anchorage appeared totally congested, and more trying to get in, and of coarse, to add "spice" the wind was now getting up! There was people demanding that others did not anchor there, there was a high degree of nervousness also with many as the wind increased further - we had never experienced any thing like this before? Eventually, a number of vessels repositioned themselves and settled, one three times. Three or four vessels gave up and went into the "North Bay" around the small headland. We were very well entertained for at least a couple of hours! Unfortunately we had nothing but peace and quiet to eat our dinner in, still one cannot have every thing?
Log Entry Wednesday 13th June - A great night out delays our departure?
Living as we do some times makes it difficult to make firm plans as things can change very easily? Our plan for the evening was to eat over in town, return to Sailaway and make ready to leave early in the morning - that was our plan! We went over to the restaurant to which we had visited previously, we were greeted well by Radir, the proprietor. We eventually selected our meals, we started with the traditional "mezine", or mixed starters, Ann opted for chicken and I went with the octopus. To compliment the food we chose a rosé wine, which unfortunately multiplied into two before the evening was out! The food was excellent, the evening went a little too well, by the close we had abandoned our original plan to leave in the morning - Ann was now to get her hair cut, things easily change, as we said earlier.
While Ann was having her hair done I wandered back to the restaurant where we had eaten last night for a coffee and kill some time, I chatted to Radir. The time soon passed and Ann appeared, transformed, although perfection is difficult to improve on? Even Radir asked "do you know this lady?" As we chatted we saw some of the food preparation being under taken, last night we had tried foods we had not tried before, one was "sukuni" - effectively flowers stuffed with rice, they we very nice. Nearby, Özleyis was preparing "sukuni" taking the flowers one by one, filling them with rice and herbs, then, folding them over to close them up before cooking.
We eventually bid our farewells and pledged to see them again on our return trip.
Log Entry Tuesday 12th June - We wake after our first night at Bozburun.
We wake a little later than normal, must have been the comfortable anchorage? The anchorage is already busy with vessels leaving, others already gone, this was the mass exodus we witnessed yesterday morning as we arrived?
The scenery all around is very dramatic, the scent of "heather" in the air.
We watched as local fishermen returned to the harbour, we even saw a partially completed gullet being towed towards the harbour, pulled along side the towing vessel and taken into the harbour - more work in progress! We will go ashore later for a few provisions and probably leave ourselves in the morning.
Log Entry Tuesday 12th June - Bozburun, a quaint place.
We leave Sailaway sitting outside of the crowded anchorage, moved from our initial position as there was a feeling that the boats were just too close. The dinghy trip in to the small harbour is a little longer but worth the security that all is well when we leave. The current anchorage is to the west of the harbour, not to the east as defined in the pilotage. The designated anchorage has been developed into a hotel front complete with a platform for gullets - no space left there at all.
The harbour is small and quaint, it seems to have developed a "dinghy quay" so we have no problem finding a place to secure ours. A fellow British cruiser helps clear a space in the congested area for us and even provides us with directions to a place to dump our rubbish. The harbour has about one third of its volume designated to small fishing craft. The harbour is busy, many pleasure vessels coming and going, it is well policed. Any vessel entering is approached by the authorities immediately upon arrival asking for paper work, or the need for transit logs and visas. I suppose this is under stand able when considering how close Greece is? It appeared that "clearance out" for vessels leaving Turkey would be very easy here as all needed is close together?
There is a partial complete gullet being worked on, taking up almost the entire north wall. The craftsmen working on her were cooling down in the water, Ann declared "This is my next boat, crew as well of coarse!" pointing to the enormous structure. We comforted Sailaway, declaring to her upon our return that Ann was only joking.
The harbour front development is limited mainly to one side, the authorities have the north side, and is, as one would expect, lined with cafes, restaurants and gift shops.
A small Turkish town would not be such if it did not include a small square, complete with restaurants and, of coarse, a statue of "Atatürk". It also comes complete with a smaller area used by the men to play backgammon, drink tea and chat.
The town is small and towards 30C, thirsty to explore, we retire to one of the waterside cafes for cooling refreshments. It was here where Ann received a full technical briefing on "some thing", her attention focused at least long enough to catch this photograph! We sat until early evening, the staff explained that they needed to move tables onto the quay for the evening trade, their neighbours did the same.
We returned to Sailaway after a visit to the supermarket for fresh salad and fruit, having our first evening meal in the cockpit of the year - it must be warming up?
Log Entry Monday 11th June - We leave Bozuk Bükü and make for Bozburun.
We wake at 6am and make ready to leave as we have to motor against any winds that develop, the earlier you leave the lighter the head winds are. We have enjoyed are time at Bozuk Bükü, it sees a lot of traffic, but most only stopping off on the way to somewhere else. A beautiful, quiet anchorage with clear waters, the only noise heard was the lapping of the water and the live stock around us - just how we like it!
Still, time to move on, Ann brings our anchor up with the usual efficiency. We had been expecting some trouble as we knew from snorkeling that our chain had become wrapped around a large rock on the seabed, but Ann brings it up with the usual ease. We make our way through the silent anchorage, the sun beginning to light up the mountains.
It is only as we approach the winding channel to take us out of the bay we are joined by another vessel, as we exit they turn east, us west, each waving a polite farewell.
The rugged coastline is now very apparent, quite intimidating in fact, we see no traffic for some time as we make for Karaburun point from which we will turn north and follow the coast line to Bozburun.
As we approach Karaburun we are able to now make out the Greek island of Simi clearly in the distance, we also encounter our first vessel, an empty gullet. We turn north and follow the coastline for about 5km to Kizil Br. from where we will turn north east towards Bozburun.
The coastline remains rugged, no harbours, dwellings, no evidence of inhabitance can be seen, the nearest road some 10km in land on the peninsular.
As we round Kizil Br. wind arrives and it is favourable, it very quickly increases and become usable. So, up goes the canvas and off goes the engine. Bozburun lies ahead, the entrance channel amongst many islands and the confusing valleys.
In time the channel entrance is confirmed by the traffic, almost what appears a mass exodus, no doubt all relative to the winds.
In time we enter the southerly channel, between Kizil Adasi and Zeytin Adasi, turning north up the coastline of Kizil Adasi. We pass through the channel between Kiseli Adasi and the mainland into the large bay in which Bozburun lies. Bozburun is well know for it's traditional wooden boat building, initially fishing boats to support the sponge fishing industry they have now moved on to the building of the wooden gullets, predominantly used in the tourist industry. We pass what is indicated to be a "yard" on the pilotage we use, it is now a modern looking factory shed, outside, a float and on land, are numerous vessels, all at different stages of build.
Kiseli Adasi has the acclaimed remains of a fort, and windmill, and it appears an attractive anchorage.
Bozburun lies at the very north of the bay, from a distance an attractive, busy looking place, a few small holiday complexes around it's perimeter.
Log Entry Friday 8th June - We move on from Marmaris, not before time!
We have spent almost another week here at Marmaris, we feel as if we are growing roots! Today we leave to make our way towards Bodrum, with the traditional winds being against us at this time of year, we have two options, an over night trip or an early start! The winds are forecast to be light for the next couple of days so we opt for the early start and see where we end up! As we lift our anchor there is very little going on around us at this time of day, three fully clothed holiday makers lie sleeping on the beach, fully clothed fortunately, the waters are quiet as we like them.
We exit Marmaris Limani, but within an hour or so the traffic begins to appear, mostly gullets at this time over taking us!
As we round Kadriga Burnu point we are over taken by the Rhodes fast ferry.
As we round the point, to the north we have the entrance to Marmaris Limani, the gullet traffic is now quite busy.
A head of us we now have what is known as "The Carian Coastline", very harsh and dramatic, open to the winter, southerly gales. Out in the distance we can just see through the mist, the Greek island of Rhodes.
Sailaway is now under engine for the entire trip, not a lot to do, she takes care of herself - Ann makes a new "towing bridal" for the dinghy. That does not take too long, it is then time to relax!
As we approach lunch time a light head wind develops as forecast, we pass through many sailboats utilising it, traveling west to east, unfortunately we are heading in the opposite direction. The wind is more of a nuisance to us, slowing us down slightly, as we make our way south west along the coast line we get closer and closer to Rhodes, it's shipping now clearly visible.
In time we pass Kizil Adasi and take a more westerly coarse towards Bozuk Bükü, our chosen destination for today. The entrance, a narrow winding channel into the bay is at last spotted. On the rocks above the entrance lies the ruins of "Loryma", said to date back to 1400BC, the base of the Athenian fleet. The Greek island of Simi now also visible to us in the distance.
We make our way into the bay, ignoring the restruant guys trying to attract our attention to moor on their quay, and of coarse subsequently, eat in their establishment. We prefer to anchor, we then have a choice as which to visit? We head up to the north of the bay and anchor under the ancient castle ruins, just off to the west of one of the restaurants.
To the south of us the ancient Loryma city walls are more evident, fortified over time obviously but untouched for centuries. This bay is not serviced by road, only sea and foot, to the south, in the distance, Rhodes.
As the afternoon develops the whole area becomes covered with various live stock, predominantly goats as one would expect, but for the first time we see donkeys? Perhaps they are used for transportation of goods from the town of Sögüt, a number of kilometres away by foot - interesting?
As the winds drop, the temperatures rise, still plenty of clear blue cool water to bathe in, even in ten metres of water every blade of weed is visible from the surface.