III - We head West, Bozburun and Datça, to sign out of Turkey.
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II - We Head West, Kas to Bozburun.
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IV - Greece, The Dodecanese, Simi to ?
Log Entry Monday 15th June - Our last full day and night in Datça.
To night we were celebrating our official departure of Turkey and moving into Greek waters, the euro still falling in our favour. We, by now have our cupboards and lockers packed tight with all we use at "Turkish prices"! We chose the Roll Cafe again, good basic food, and a great view over the harbour. The proprietor, who's name I will not even try to spell had previously worked in central and east London before meeting his wife and becoming a much happier person, she said? Still, it was his shift tonight so he played a great host, joining us with our celebrations. We met some of his local friends, one also had a "Bruce Roberts" sailboat, he had just had his first charter, he claimed to be normally working from April - every one claims the lack of customers? We met up with him again in Simi shortly after.
The night went on for some time, beer, wine, then raki for me - I was honestly enjoying myself, ignore the picture, perhaps some thing I ate, Ann says I am always miserable?
The evening was a great success, especially when we had struck a deal with the proprietor, Ann was to remain in Datça, working for her board. I was also paying an allowance towards her keep which also suited me!
The annoying thing was that when we returned the next morning to finalise our departure paperwork, we turned up at the cafe, his wife knew nothing about it - these men are always doing that to Ann, letting her down and disappointing me!
Log Entry Sunday 14th June - We have dinner in the town, a few bits and pieces to do too!
We head ashore for the evening, our anchor by now is going no where, we had garbish to deposit, believe it or not, I remembered the location of a skip we used in 2012 - now ask me what I did yesterday? The town was good, but quiet, we called and met with a guy we had been told about by Ian to "sign us out of Turkey", the process costs 80Tl as it did two years ago and was to take less than 2 hours, unless there were issues, of coarse. As we left the harbour a cafe (Roll Cafe) sitting high above the harbour has caught Ann's attention, we said we would return.
We also had to find a bank, and to our amazement, I found a "Bimm's" for my Ann - guess where we will be tomorrow? With excitement returned to her eyes, we returned to the cafe as we had promised ourselves, Ann wanted to celebrate the Bimm's finding.
When entering the cafe, they were working in the entrance area, quietly drilling! Still, we agreed to have a drink and leave, the proprietor apologised for the noise and said it would not last long. After a review of the menu we decided to eat there too, simple food, but it was good! We had the benefit of a great view over the harbour, anchorage and over to the Greek island of Simi.
We were even provided with a call out of the Coast Guard, be it a drill or whatever. We ate our fill and some, so we decided to walk it off, we still had to find somewhere to do our laundry, so all worked well.
Log Entry Saturday 13th June - Sherlock & Watson leave for Datça.
Still activity ashore this morning, a gentleman is collecting something from the ground, filling his sack then emptying his collection into the trailer of his tractor? There appears to be quite a collection of usable, sellable items around - if you know what to look for? I think Sherlock & Watson should stick to sailing and forget investigating, the reason for the names relate to yesterdays log entry, it is not that we are loosing it? Well we could be, but I could think of a lot worse ways, still must move on!
We raise our anchor around 0900, not much chance of wind today, still, you never know, the distant, electric storm we had last night was not forecast either?
Not a lot going on as we head south to exit the Limani, and round Kizil Adasi, we leave the Kizil/Kiseli channel to the locals. As we round Kizil, we turn directly towards Datça, not a breathe of wind, the motor to remain on for now.
As we turn we head into the early mist created by heat and high humidity, only the odd vessel ahead of us. The only issue in our path being Atabol Kayasi, we should be passing one mile southwest of it, by the time we do, the mist should have burnt off. Within an hour or so the wind, rather breeze, began to develop, with a mild course adjustment, canvas up and engine off - heaven!
We were averaging around three knots, barely a ripple as Sailaway makes her bow wave - must wash those feet! The total trip is only around 20 miles, so no pressure, perhaps more wind too ahead?
The wind did not increase but our average over the trip was 3.3 knots, and more importantly - no engine for most of it! Ann made the berth first, so she had the right to first doze as we moved slowly but quietly through the water with some effort, we only saw four other travelling pleasure craft during the 5/6 hours and two commercial.
As we approached Datça, we altered coarse to the wind, dropped our mainsail, corrected coarse for Datça and then the headsail was wrapped and the engine started, it only took us 15 minutes from that point to get in and set anchor. A good sail, nice and relaxing, we had one charter vessel motor past us at speed, with mainsail up, one wonders why, perhaps late for dinner?
Log Entry Thursday 11th June - An investigation of the shoreline is required.
We had planned to leave for Datça today where we intend to sign out of Turkey and move into Greek waters, Simi being our first Greek destination. We had heard it mentioned so many times and for so long, in fact we passed the Island twice in 2012.
A difficult night left us delaying our departure, no big deal, it's not like we have a flight to catch! I use the morning to catch up on things, mainly the website. Ann keeps herself busy but within a couple of hours boredom sets it.
While drinking coffee in the cockpit, we discussed the shore line, in this bay there is essentially what appears to be two discarded boat slips, but on closer examination thought binoculars and photographs the equipment appears far from abandoned. Ann had earlier seen two women carrying and depositing sacks of "something" on the shoreline - questions begin to develop that required answers.
Our curiosity is fuelled by the return of the two ladies, depositing further sacks, this time creating a second pile, they then disappear from sight behind a large rocky area. We must get to the bottom this, but we had best wrap up as it seems to be very cold over there as apposed to the temperatures in Sailaway's cockpit - joking clearly?
We take the dinghy ashore after lunch, and immediately the investigation begins! The sacks contain two types of plant life/herbs, one of which we had we had come across before, added to form a type of chai (tea), but we know not what it is called? My assistant "Dr Watson" notices the tractor tyres in the now dried mud, the equipment is far from abandoned. I could only deduce the area is used, as and when required? There was even electricity available to start one of the larger winches, a key locked switch box looked as if it had been recently fitted, security is high here, the keys were left in, it saves forgetting them!
Behind the rocky area where the two women had disappeared behind was at least two sizable holdings, secured with fencing and gates but probably more so to protect the vegetation being grown, from the numerous goats and sheep wandering the area? They had sizable olive groves, vegetable patches, people must live there, I assume, but it was difficult to establish in which buildings they occupied?
The developments were sizable, we followed the dirt, tractor path over the hill towards the west side of Bozburun, we stumbled across a abandoned beehive area.
From the top of the hill the view was pleasant, we sat and refreshed ourselves with cold water and snacks Ann had prepared.
We followed the lane, we discovered a pipeline and water reservoir, water could be heard running through the pipe work both to and from the reservoir, a much larger supply pipe exiting the system, making it's way down the rough track towards building of some nature?
The buildings were again small holdings, one had a small flock of sheep, recently sheered, they were clearly looked after well, but did not show much mass reference meat? It was hard to establish from the building wether these were being lived it by humans, but one must assume so, an extremely very poor area compared to the town itself. There were about four or five of these developments off the downhill track, a couple appeared to be small workshops.
We then made an amazing discovery, a gullet, goat building yard, (any one get that, just wondered if any one was alert?). Everything was here, the equipment good, wood shaving dry and painted wood good. The main thing missing was workers, the goats occupied the steel work tables, probably using them to stay cooler, perhaps a union issue?
A major, burning question immediately hit my mind "how the hell would they get the completed vessels to the water's edge? The lane could only be negotiated with a tractor or some extreme off road vehicle, I continued down the lane a little further putting some thought to the task, but gave up and we decided to return to Sailaway.
We had seen many lizards, and had kept a keen eye out for snakes, this guy showed very little fear until we got really close, it must have been 30cm (12") long.
We returned to Sailaway to check out our findings.
Within an hour of our return, a small boat, a man and two women, to do the lifting obviously, arrived and cleared the shoreline of the sacks that had been deposited earlier.
A key point to what we have seen today is that there still exists a completely different way of life, a million miles from that of Bozburun, whilst interesting, difficult to imaging the difficulties these people must have making a living from the way they do, living from the land or whatever it produces. It is when you are exposed to such a finding you can appreciate how the lucky are influenced by tourism etc!