VII - Back into Turkey.
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VIII - Life back in Kas Marina.
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VI - The Greek Islands II.
Log Entry Saturday 11th October - We leave Göçek for Kas with Ian & Adrianne.
We pack up our dinghy and tidy up leaving about 0830 hours, some 55 mile ahead of us, twelve to thirteen hours for Sailaway. Ann is more than a "little under the weather" more like "a bloody lot!" I have to say I have never seen her this bad before, I blame myself for leaving her alone - bollocks do I, it was her own bloody fault! Ann keeps repeating "I am never drinking alcohol again!" I remind her that her that the exact words were uttered to me earlier this morning!
The forecast was for light winds, so the trip would be predominantly motoring, sailing when one could. When motoring we would stop the engine every four hours to check the gearbox oil levels as I had little data to suggest anything else?
We cut across Fethiye Körfezi in almost mirror like conditions to Ilbis Burnu, south east to Kötü Br. then following Patara Beach to Catal Adasi/Kalkan, from there cutting through the outer islands directly to Kas. It was just a case of keeping our minds occupied, well the three of anyway, Ann slept.
There was periods of sails up and sails down, engine on, engine off, Ann mainly slept! The weather began to worsen, as we paralleled Patara Beach the lightening appeared to landward, then seaward, the winds came and went as we went through the weather, Ann slept!
The weather, was as always "the weather", we managed our way through it, the three of us chatting as we did so.
As darkness began to fall, we passed Catal Adasi and turned slightly northwards to cut directly through the islands to Kas - we had seen much storm activity but thankfully not a drop of rain fell on Sailaway. One of Ian's friends rang to say Kas was in total darkness being lit up by the electrical storm, rain was torrential - we were completely dry, and, Ann began to wake up, for a period anyway?
Darkness fell, just before a complete lack of wind had us drop all canvas and continue under engine. We made Kas Marina around 2230 hours, in perfect calm and completely dry, not a drop of rain had fallen on us the whole trip! As we turned into our pontoon I noticed a slight breeze on the gauge developing, Ian confirmed with "there is a slight breeze, you will feel it on your port side as you turn". As I turned the wind gusted from no where and pinned us hard against Tamino (Ian & Adrianne's boat) the mariner pushed us off with his rib, Ann was awoken by the fierce engine noise and was surprised to see that we were in the marina. I called to her to help Adrianne keep Sailaway off Tamino as Ian dealt with the lines!
By the time we had settle Sailaway the wind had once again completely gone, we had our usual toast to celebrate our safe arrival, Ann did not?
Log Entry Friday 10th October - Back to Göçek to meet Ian & Adrianne.
We meet our friends Ian and Adrianne up in Göçek, they will stay on board with us tonight, then we leave for Kas in the morning.
The trip is easy, although one observation does disgust me - pegs on our guard rails, what have we become? Still, life is full of disappointments, the pegs is just another, it is one's character that determines how one deals with such issues? I shout at Ann - joking obviously.
All is as it was three days ago, we approach Göçek and are pleasantly surprised by the amount of room in the anchorage, especially with it being the weekend, we drop our anchor and head ashore.
When they arrive, we meet then ashore for a drink or two then back to Sailaway for dinner and further drinks? I being a good christian, only have a couple of drinks of alcohol all evening and retire early leaving the three of them to enjoy themselves in my absence? A night of enjoyment Ann would learn to regret.
Log Entry Thursday 9th October - Ashore to our little beach bar for the evening.
We head for the beach, we checked earlier we can get food until about 1800 hours so we planned our evening around that. We will also dump our rubbish, some thing I continuous wonder where the large volume comes from?
We take a quick look around Sailaway, checking out Ann's handy work/maintenance - she looks good, Sailaway, not Ann. We then follow the south shore past the other vessels to the beach.
As we arrive at the quay, fuel is being delivered to one of the gullets by truck, 1120 litres on the gauge as we walk past and counting.
Most people have left by the time we arrive, a few in the bar, a few still in the water, it is late in the day and it is October! It is easy to pick out a table, we order what is tasty, basic Turkish food, Ann insists on "double chips", they are good! Ann asks for a raki, at first we are told that they have none, then a conversation begins with a gentleman sitting at another table, the raki appears.
We sit, eat and drink, watching the world go by, Ann fancies another raki (she has a problem!). When I ask at the counter I am told "no sorry he is a guest", the comment is explained Ann had just be given, but charged, a measure of raki from another customers bottle - amazing, very nice of him we thought, no doubt he got the cash too? Ann orders more chips, the kitchen is then closed. As the gent behind the counter closes up he asks if we would like any thing else, he would leave the fridge open and the security guard would serve us, we said no and cleared the bill.
We sat for some time, until darkness fell, a guy appears on a motorised board, first one I had seen, he follows the shoreline and disappears into the next bay?
Fishing is a major pastime, not surprising when you see the price of the fish to buy, as we sit even the security man has a go. Darkness falls and we return to Sailaway, Sarsala we will see next year perhaps?
Log Entry Tuesday 7th October - Down to Sarsala Köy, our favourite place in Skopea Limani.
Well, down to Sarsala for a couple of days before we make our final trip back to Kas Marina, always some what daunting as next is the trip back to the UK etc, etc, etc! Another year over, where does the time go, still from our personal experiences, this year would actually be best over? To add to our long list of "bad luck" of this year, I did my usual checks as I do before each trip, no matter how short, and guess what - our gearbox is losing oil via the input shaft seal, another one for the 2014 list! This one is major, so it will have to be managed carefully?
As we prepare, our favourite ferry boat is already active and, my favourite yacht in these waters "Cigdem" is back in it's berth. I looked into this vessel and information is hard to find, one thing we do now see is a British ensign flown on it's stern as apposed to Turkish. The only information available "Privately owned, and named after the former owner of Hurriyet newspaper; Erol Simavi’s wife, Cigdem. The Cigdem yacht is a classic and an interesting Turkish custom build yacht".
The short trip is very simple, lift the anchor as Ann does perfectly and travel due south into Skopea Limani.
As we leave Göçek I notice the largest yacht I have ever seen tied back in a marina, but as it falls away from us it is impossible to identify, as we enter the Limani another appears.
This one, "Dilbar" is easily identifiable, with it's "pop out" seating/dining areas' on both sides.
It's internal area for boat/tender storage is sizable, we can see at least one other craft in side and two others tied to the stern - we only have one tender, we do not bother with a helicopter, no real need for one?
Motor yacht Dilbar is a 110m 361 (ft) steel yacht with aluminium superstructure built by Lürssen and launched in 2008. She accommodates 20 passengers, who has that many friends and 47 crew, who would want all that crew?. The design is by Tim Heywood with interior done by Alberto Pinto. Luxury yacht Dilbar was the first yacht in the world with particle filters on the main engine exhausts. Installed with twin MTU diesel-electric main engines, Dilbar can reach a maximum speed of 21 knots. The current owner, Alisher Burkhanovich Usmanov (born 1953) is a Russian billionaire. Usmanov has a net worth of US$ 19.4 billion, he is one of Russia’s richest men and the world's 40th richest person. Usmanov is married and is a graduate of Moscow State Institute of International Relations, his wealth comes from mining and investments, but, is he really happy?
After a period of wondering, what life must be like for an individual such as Dilbar's owner we come to the conclusion that he cannot be as happy as us, even with the year we have had - BOLLOCKS! We continue down the Limani taking in the scenery and relative silence on the water.
As the day opens up the traffic begins, it is amazing how many ribs zoom up to Göçek and back - probably for bread or some thing the chef forgot - we never forget any thing so no need for us to waste our time or fuel?
With Sarsala ahead it is just a case of picking our spot, all buoys are taken, the bay is still extremely busy, more private vessels that commercial which was surprising to me?
We pick a place in the south east corner, just off a small fishing boat quay, we drop our anchor and Ann swims ashore with a line to tie Sailaway back. We are soon settled in, a little too far from the small boat quay off the beach, difficult to see the "goings on" from our position, the feeding of supplies to the surrounding areas by sea as the road stops at Sarsala!
Still, we are not settled for long and the bread/cake lady arrives from Amigo's Restaurant - our/my favourite bread. Ann has chatted to her for the last three years about boy friends and girlie stuff? She is looking to go on holiday at the end of the month when the restaurant closes down to Russia and /or the Ukraine. She also talks about the silence during the winter "only the birds here" she declares, but after her busy summer she prefers that.
The small fishing boat quay provides some distraction.
As does the activity on the water, we are along side two large motor yachts, fully equipped with all the toys.
Log Entry Friday 3rd October - We leave for Göçek, just a short hop.
Autumn is certainly beginning to set in, we wake to the morning mist we are now used to, the variance of temperatures, now up to 10/15C mid-day to night, typical 26C - 12C. These temperatures very comfortable for us but it is begriming to put nature to work.
Ann takes up our anchor, which is firmly buried in the mud providing us with great holding but as usual even with the chain wash some what of a dirty deck. I caught Ann this time washing her feet as well as the deck, makes sense I guess?
The forecast for the next week or so is little or no wind, Göçek is only around 10-12 miles around the coastline of Fethiye Körfezi, we do not even go to sea this trip.
As the sun begins to break through the cloud in places, the sun worshipers appear - it is only 0830, what sort of a holiday is that? The Rhodes ferry passes us just as we exit the natural harbour, that is one place we do no want to see for some time.
The trip was all on motor, no wind for sailing, so autopilot on and keep yourself busy - that is all there is to do.
We head basically east and soon see the entrance between the islands through which we pass to get to Göçek, the water still and flat like glass.
Göçek, as usually a busy area for boating, we have no problem finding a space in the anchorage, as busy as it is? The issue is really the fast ribs tearing backwards and forwards, still, it is their issue to stay clear!
Once settled in the anchorage, and we know Sailaway is secure we have lunch and decide to go ashore, it is just over a year since our last visit. Almost every piece of shore has been converted to a marina or berthing of some nature, I am surprised the anchorage is still available? To the south of us, Skopea Limani, in which our favourite bay, Sarsala Köy sits, that's where we are off to next.
The town, although structurally the same has changed, it could be described as "going up market". A designer boutique sits where our favourite Turkish eatery once sat, most of the little Turkish Kebab type places have been push up the back streets as our favourite has, it is stumbled upon fortunately?
Still, people would say that is progress, not sure we would agree? We look at these boutiques, and the new Skopea "Exclusive" Shopping Mall, with no one in any of the shops and think "how the hell do theses places survive, but this we see all over Turkey and this year Rodos?
Still we like Göçek, but Ann after frequenting the markets remarks " At these prices I am glad we stocked up in Fethiye!" It is not that we are mean, we believe in value for money, even the fresh fruit is priced roughly 50% more per kilo? Unfortunately, fresh fruit and salad is all we purchase, we eat lots of it and, it is difficult to store on board due to the temperatures. We restock every couple of days when able?
Log Entry Thursday 2nd October - We have our long over-due barbeque before we leave for Göçek in the morning.
We have had down below a "fold-a-way" barbeque that we purchased in Croatia during our drive over to Turkey in 2013, never used until today.
The first decision to make is clearly the venue, we have had an eye on a small bay just across from us for a couple of days. Next is comfort, then clearly transportation all objectives achieved.
We always stay across the far side of the harbour, away from the main anchorage, it is a longer journey by dinghy to town but it also has clear advantages to us.
The fold-up-barbeque proved to be quite a challenge, in fact the instruction manual, although not in English was consulted a couple of times, which I must confess was un-usual - must have been the design short falls?
With it at last constructed, lighting, I find is always the greater challenge, so we are armed with lighting gel and fire lighters as well as the tradition beer to swallow as one watches it's progress? I feel it is also very refreshing to have adequate supervision present to provide that "helping hand" or constructive advice when needed.
My Plan "B" was the beach restaurant!
We did make an effort to go in the water, but the presence of jellyfish, and my recent stings made me decide against it? Any how I had a new friend, a small young dog had joined us, a friendly little chap, probably a street dog, that first, ate all my biscuits that I normally carry. I then realised he was thirsty as he was attempting to drink the sea water, I jumped into the dinghy to fetch a bowl and cool fresh water from Sailaway.
The barbie was now well alight as I anticipated, our little friend tucked in too, preferring the beef burgers. Ann got very frustrated as he seemed to prefer eating his food off the dirt as apposed to off the plate - strange creature? I handed him our last burger and off he ran with it, never to be seen again!
All we, rather I, had left to do was to finish our drinks, pack away the blasted barbie, I do not think we will be seeing that thing for some time?
And, of coarse, return to Sailaway before dark.
Log Entry Thursday 2nd October - This little chap holds two records on Sailaway.
This little chap about 60mm long holds the two following records on board Sailaway:
Log Entry Sunday 29th September- A break in the weather, rain stops, very strong winds due next?
With only a day or so before the winds arrive we decide to go ashore and stock up on fruit, salad and bread. The winds will only last a couple of days, it is also a good excuse to stretch your legs. We are in no hurry, we have not to be back in Kas until Peter's arrival, 17th October.
The weekly cycle of tourists, i.e. the new arrivals in most cases yesterday (Saturday) mean that the trip boats are not busy at all other than trying to sell their produce to the new arrivals. The public park area just off the quay side is the busiest with locals enjoying their Sunday.
We take a short stroll down the quay to the old section, fishing boats, still active, it is good they have not lost their position to the commercial craft. The guys can often be seen feeding the turtles off the sides of their small boats with elements of their catch - not today?
Log Entry Saturday 27th September - An act of God or what?
I spent less than an hour under the water cleaning the little growth off Sailaway's hull before I realised I had been stung badly, probably by a jelly fish after disturbing it's home? The pain was so severe I had to abandon the cleaning and get out of the water. The sting was centred around my middle, right side but also to my neck and shoulders? I treat the sting in the shower with urine, a tradition method, and, as the blistering began to settle, lay down on the bed. Ann woke me about an hour later due to another issue which was dealt with, but as I stood up I immediately realised around 80% of the pain in my knees had disappeared? As I test I dropped down on my honkers with ease and minor pain, an achievement not fulfilled for some time. We now have our fingers crossed hoping the condition, whatever it is, will last for some time!
Log Entry Saturday 27th September - Innovation turns to a couple of days of rain and winds.
We have a couple of days of rain ahead, the first we will have seen since arriving in back in Turkey early July. Sitting on board Sailaway watching the world going by, we see a young Turkish family pull their car up to the shoreline as many families do and unload the car for a "family afternoon". They were clearly having problems lighting their barbeque, being as innovative as the Turks are, the barbeque is positioned at the exhaust outlet of the car. The engine is started and revved by the owner while his wife attends the barbeque?
The extra assistance from the car's engine is more than enough to get the barbeque going, it is then moved over to their preferred picnic area - well done!
Another group choose a table and bench discarded into the water by whoever, to keep them cool? A very community spirited group as after they had finished the table was repositioned on the shoreline. Too few of those type of people around today, very community spirited!
As night falls we retire, but are awoken around 0200 by the squalls of wind hitting Sailaway, thunder could be heard in the distance. I sat up on deck and watched the first storm pass to the north, the second hit us, torrential rainfall as promised, just a little early than forecast?
In the morning more of the same, we will sit this out on board, perhaps ashore tomorrow, we have strong winds due early next week, could be here a few more days? October is fast approaching so a little instability in the weather is to be respected. The temperatures are falling to, around mid 20C - not so much a bad thing?
Log Entry Sunday 23rd September A night out at Yacht Classic Hotel.
We definitely needed cheering up, during our last trip to Yacht Classic Hotel on the way to Greece we had promised to call in on the way back and see if the food was still just as good as it had been when we wintered there? We started the evening off at the pool bar, where we spent a couple of hours, then moved to find a table by the waterside.
It was very pleasant to be recognised by the staff who had been there some years before. The food was excellant, just as good if not better than in previous years. Very reasonably priced too, we ate later in our stay in the M.O.D bar in ECE Marina with friends - it was more expensive there?
The evening was great, fuelled with Ann's flirtation with the male staff, "being friendly" she calls it. I thought at one time I was going to loose her to the Head Waiter but we could not agree on the allowance I was to pay for her up keep?
Log Entry Monday 22nd September - Our first day in Fethiye.
Today was to be a lazy day, we woke and spent time just absorbing our surroundings. The beach bar had extended, a water play area now constructed.
There is always plenty to occupy one's mind, other than the needed repairs to the rear stainless assembly?
We decided to head into town, we needed supply's and further pain medication as I had run short, increasing dosage to keep mobile. It was interesting to see the new sun shades in the town, "some one in the authorities must have family with an umbrella factory?" I cynically declared.
As we neared the hardware stores around the Fish Market a delivery caught my eye, Tuna the size of Ann - that's big! As we walked past a group of English adults were also amazed at the load, "I have thrown bigger back into the water" I rumbled - made them laugh?
Log Entry Sunday 21st September - At last time to leave Rhodes!
We were now so tired of Rhodes we set our alarm for 0530, we planned to leave at first light, the winds would be good so an easy trip was anticipated.
As soon as ready, not that it took long, most was done before we retired last night. We lifted anchor around 0600 and began to leave the harbour in which we had sat for almost three weeks. The sun began to rise over the Turkish mountains ahead of us as we passed the British Destroyer that had been here for some days now.
With our sails soon up we caught the traditional wind, we were off! For the first couple of hours, we kept looking back and saying to each other, "Thank Christ for that!"
As light came so did a mist over the Turkish land mass ahead of us, we had over 45 miles to cover. Once we set the sails they would need little attention until we neared the coastline. Time to rest, it had again been another night of motion and noise from the winds, to rest in silence was idyllic.
Sailaway, with the wind on her port quarter ate up the miles, at times up to eight knots, as we neared the shore vessels came into site, time to change the courtesy flags over, from Greek to Turkish.
As we approach Fethiye Körfezi the winds began to drop as forecast, we managed for some time with little more than 8/10 knots directly on our stern. As we arrived deeper into the bay, the genoa would not stay out on it's own, a pole was needed. We were too tired, and could not be troubled so we rolled it up and progressed a little slower with our main only, buried in our rigging.
Eventually we gave up, at less than two knots of speed we started the engine. We entered into the large natural harbour in Fethiye, picked our spot and dropped anchor "Thank Christ for that!" we both shouted as Ann walked back to the cockpit having completed her task on the anchor ahead.