III - Our Season Continues.
To view our previous log entries please use the following link:
II - Life in Kas Marina, Turkey (2014).
To view our next log entries please use the following link:
IV - Heading West.
Log Entry Saturday 2nd August - Time to fire the engine up one week later! (122)
With almost a weeks work complete it is time to stand back and begin to admire the work completed.
As we have worked we have re-lacquered the engine too, with great pride! We start the engine up only to find a further problem, a "pin hole" in the engine exhaust outlet, pumping in sea water, what next? This item is not available here either so we weld up the unit to make do, we only need it to last until November?
We will return in November with a complete heat exchange system, and exhaust outlet, almost 20kg, and swap out the whole unit. What we have will see us through till then I am sure.
Log Entry Tuesday 29th July - The full scope of the problem known, but now held up due to the national holiday.
The water pump arrived from Istanbul as promised, it was a relative easy job to customise it to suit our arrangement?
After determining the full extent of our problem, leaking heating exchanger due to severe corrosion etc, we are faced with a serious issue. A replacement heat exchanger is not available in Turkey, shipping it in would be a bit of a nightmare? We need to get going what we have here, with the spares we have available, not impossible, just a lot of work in high ambient temperatures? On top of the heat exchanger issue the camshaft cover gasket was leaking oil, we had brought back a new gasket, now was the time to replace that too!
We set about cleaning up as best we could, 27 years of corrosion from the sea water, making best we could from what we had around us and the spares we carried.
Fairly optimistic, it only needs to last until November?
Log Entry Sunday 27th July - Turkish Ramazan (Ramadan) sets in, a great time for the Turkish people.
The holiday starts this weekend, Kas has never been so busy, manly Turkish visitors of coarse. It was interesting to walk around the square, never seen this full before. You have the local stall holders selling any thing from water to aluminous flying toys!
These group of kids had obviously recognised an opportunity, sitting at the base of the Atatürk Monument, trying to sell off their own toys? Future business folk of the Country?
We later settled down to dinner at one of our local favourites just off the square, no alcohol of coarse!
Log Entry Friday 25th July - Time to start the couple of little jobs we thought we had?
Today a funny sort of day, take it easy some what, pick up a delivery from the office, new flares, ours are four years out of date, could go off at any time?
The important thing was to check out a couple of what appeared to be sea water leaks from the sea water intake pump and the heat exchanger? Not looking forward to that in over mid 30C?
I knew we needed a new sea water cooling pump, fortunately we could get one from Istanbul, our last Jabsco had only lasted 15 years 2 months, it came with a two year warranty? That we ordered, and would be with us in a couple of days, but further examination revealed a lot more issues?
Log Entry Thursday 24th July - A re-think of our strategy to get us back to Kas?
Well today was going to be easy, hot, but easy, on with the engine and point Sailaway home to Kas. We left at the break of dawn, with nav lights on for an hour or so, and just kept changing the autopilot? Not a lot to report except a view of the "Old Bosphorus Ferry", now a private vessels sailing out of Göçek, some what magnificant?
We motored on until we turned into Buçak Deniz in which the marina sits, at least we got the last mile or so under sail?
We arrived in the marina around 1000 hours after our five hour trip, the boat complete warmed through from the engine. Time to raise the wind scoops and go ashore until Sailaway cools down!
Log Entry Wednesday 23rd July - Looking forward to a good sail against the wind to Kas?
We have a number of small jobs on the engine to complete back in Kas before we head west and eventually into Greece. As the traditional winds are against us on our route we would normally leave early and motor the twenty miles back before the winds appear? Today, we are in no hurry, with the winds forecast to be light headwinds, we plan to sail back against the wind, our first time on this route. We wait until we see the winds appear using the Köy Castle flag as an indicator, lift anchor and leave the limani.
Crossing the Roads is always interesting no matter how many times you do it, always something different to see?
We exit the Roads via the "East Entrance" and head for open/clear water, we find the light forecasted winds (8-10 knots).
We begin to make good way, tacking out to sea, the further out we went the stronger the winds became, about four mile off shore, we turned back towards the land on the opposite tack, we had to reef the wind was now building? As we came towards the shore, the local effects drove us further east, over time it appeared as if we were making no progress at all in our required direction?
We continued to reef periodically with winds now in excess of twenty knots, as I looked back the option of returning back to Kekova and leaving early and motoring back in the morning looked more appealing? Thinking about it later, we should have stayed well off shore and stayed cleared clear of the local winds - you live and learn! We continued on for about three hours, making little progress and the wind still increasing, gusting well in excess of twenty five knots eventually? We then turned, put the wind behind us and screamed back to Kekova with nothing more than a reefed genoa, still making good way?
It took us less than an hour to enter and sail across the Roads, great sailing
We dropped anchor, initially on our own in the east section of the Limani, in front of the hillside of Lycian Tombs, we were soon joined by many others. Tomorrow another day!
Log Entry Sunday 20th July - A visitor asks for our help?
We were sitting in the cockpit finishing off our breakfast and getting ready to go ashore when a boat enters the anchorage and positions himself in front of us - the boat name "ULYSSES". His anchor was down for thirty minutes or so and then the gent, clearly alone dives into the water and begins to make his way over to us? We begin chatting, his name Mirek Lewinski, he left Poland four years ago to complete circumnavigation, following the route of "Rejs Wagnera" a Polish national marine hero? He had just cleared into Turkey coming up from the Red Sea. He questioned us about the anchorage, the town ashore and his next port of call, Marmaris. We offered pilotage documentation and a lift ashore to look around town, perhaps pick up supplies?
We ended up having a couple of beers, over a couple of hours, listening to many of his experiences, all very interesting. Mirek was long gone in the morning before we raised our heads to get ahead of the winds.
To follow, trace his route and his adventures: www.rejswagnera.pl
Log Entry Saturday 19th July - All very exciting stuff around here today!
We had planned to clean the hull this morning, although last cleaned at the end of March we have had a covering of growth take hold over the three months Sailaway was stationary in the marina. We discussed our approach during breakfast which was interrupted by gun shots, not too unusual for this area? My attention was drawn by the gentleman in the boat to the west of us looking through his camera, or taking photographs of three men walking along the shore side pathway. This section is part of the Lycian Pathway, used often by hikers?
When I look, sure enough this was where the gun shots had came from?
Less than fifteen later the Sahil Güvenlik (Coast Guard) appear along side the gents sailboat talking to him, he points to the now vacant shoreline? The Sahil Güvenlik then speed off to the western corner of the Limani, a loud hailer could be heard? Then to add to the excitement two jet skis enter the Limani and race around the Limani, around the stern of the Sahil Güvenlik (silly billy's!)? The Sahil Güvenlik immediately turn and chase after them, sirens going, moving in fast peruse as the jet skies head east, totally oblivious to what is behind them, past the harbour of Üçagiz towards the east of the Limani?
It then happened that as the chase was going on, the larger of the two Sahil Güvenlik vessels stationed here at Üçagiz enters the Limani.- they then managed to get the two riders attention?
What ever was said/done, they were held for a good thirty minutes before released, they left the Limani very cautiously, obviously?
We then got on cleaning Sailaway's hull, improving sailing efficiency and fuel consumption!
Log Entry Friday 18th July - Our time passes so quickly, does yours?
Our day starts with no real plan, we do need bread, fruit and perhaps some salad, depending on it's quality? In this heat it makes it difficult for the shopkeepers to keep it fresh?
We drop the dinghy down into the water and head ashore, we always tie up outside "Abraham's". He, or Mehmet always welcomes us and has in the past helped us with "issues", So, by now we are good friends both with Abraham and Mehmet who works for him.
We walk into the small supermarket to check out the fruit and salad there, then, down behind the waterfront to the small fruit and vegetable kiosk. This place is amazing the quality and price is always good (half the price of Kas) and we are probably still paying twice that of the Turkish locals. This kiosk is also supported with a massive "walk in" cooler at the back, where all the best salad stuff is stored?
Now, knowing what we shall buy from where, we walk along to the main square and towards the restaurant for cooling refreshments, following those we shall complete our shopping and return to Sailaway. The small village of Üçagiz is tidy but full of "rustic colour, each time we walk the back street of the town, all 200 meters, we see barely a person around?
The visitors arrive by coach and car, marched straight on the nearby pier, or along the front, past the restaurants to the other quay depending on their boat?
We make our way along the water front and into Abraham's for a couple of diet cokes, we pass a couple of hours just chatting between ourselves or with Abraham and Mehmet. Before we realised, we had lost a couple of hours, we drink up and arrange to pay the 12tl for our cokes when we return to the dinghy after our shopping. That is exactly what we do, but, we end up agreeing to pay what is owed when we come back for dinner this evening - I blame Ann!
We arrived back around 1900 hours and ordered our food and a bottle of wine, a good evening with good food as usual. It is one of those places that seem to get cheaper the more you visit?
We carried on chatting into the evening, finishing off with complementary raki's to finish off the evening.
Log Entry Thursday 17th July - The unforecast winds kept us on board all day today?
Our plan today, once checking the forecast, was to go ashore, pick up some bits and pieces, then have a look at Sailaway's hull to see what of the three months growth had been washed off during our brisk sail yesterday - neither happened?
We watched the winds begin to build around 1000 hours, some what earlier than what we know as "traditional winds"? Within an hour we had a steady 25 knots plus, gusting over 30 knots!
We watched as a magnificant triple master enter the Limani, along with numerous pleasure boats, predominantly making for the marina but also the anchorage. During a telephone call from my Mum, in one of the gusts, our anchor drag alarm went off, sure enough I checked and we were moving towards the rocky shore, even with our "factor of 5x depth of chain down"? I shouted to Ann to get off the phone, she was clearly having an issue getting off the phone as clearly my Mum had no under standing of our situation - I laughed, as you can imagine? Ann did call my Mum back and tried to explain why she had to end the conversation so abruptly once we had re sited Sailaway.
We moved down to the west side of the Limani, it's sticky mud had held us well in the past. We then, with little to keep us occupied, had a "people watching day", plenty of tea and coffee. The winds stay with us all day, by mid afternoon, I was looking towards a visit to "Abraham's" to enjoy his "mezine" and to chat with him about sail repairs. Our UV strip on the genoa had torn, due to aging yesterday he had new sails made earlier this year in Fethiye - I was interested in his views on the guy he used? It was around 2000 hours when the winds began to drop, so our trip ashore this evening looked to be postponed too?
One thing that did "tickle my fancy" was, that as evening prayer was called I noted a flashing neon on the Mosque Tower? I have heard stories of the Muslim Religion trying to modernise to attract the younger generation, as most, adults and all, under stood little of the traditional Arabic Prayer, not in the Turkish Language - flashing neon's was a little too far I thought? It was more likely to be a faulty light but it kept me occupied for a short period?
Log Entry Wednesday 16th July - Out of the Marina, a good "shake down" sail for Sailaway and us too!
We have been back 13 days, life in the Marina is very hot at times, especially in the evening, today, we leave for a week or so? We plan to sail east to one of our favourite areas, Kekova Roads for a week perhaps? We will then return to Kas, fill our tanks, refuel and then move west into the Greek Islands - that is our plan today Peter!
We leave the pontoon around 1130 hours, once, into the channel all jobs are completed in time, Ann is her usual efficient self! It is good to see that Kas Sailing Club have taken over the old "Dolphin Jail" it was closed down due to cruelty before we arrived here and has until now, stood derelict.
With Kas behind us we are able to watch the paragliders descending, in tandem, gracefully dropping down to the harbour where they land on the sea wall in the town.
We pass the almost empty beaches along the shore side, not the most popular time of the year for tourists, too hot! As we approach the entrance of Buçak Deniz, in the distance, the Greek Island of Kastellórizon, the resulting swell from the strong winds yesterday starts to hit us. We raise our main to provide more stability.
With all canvas up, we enter the full swell coming from the west, with less than 10 knots of wind it becomes interesting. We see a flotilla of about 8/10 boats cross our path, all but one motoring, even he was rolling a pitching heavily. The question was, how much more confused would the sea get, entering in amongst the islands and islets we would normally travel through moving east? A bright idea (perhaps) sail out to sea and hopefully less confused waters along the east coast of Kastellórizon, then on the seaward side of the island, turn east towards Kekova?
That is exactly what we did, we were able to keep speed up with the wind on our beam, providing a more comfortable ride in the 2 - 3 meter swell, perhaps greater at times. Once heading east we had stronger winds, which would increase even further (20/25 knots) on our stern. Great sailing but we found it very tiring, and not ashamed to say so either, by the time we had reefed/reduced our sail again, 3 to 4 miles from the entrance to Kekova, every muscle in my legs and shoulders ached? More noticeable, not much time for photographs?
Dropping the main completely before entering the Roads, we sailed into remarkable shelter, the whites beginning to whip up down Polemos Bükü to the west of us. The Roads, was no busier than we saw it at the end of February, earlier this year?
However, once inside Üçagiz Limani more vessels were seen, we positioned ourselves underneath Köy Castle, anchored with two other vessels for the evening, a restful evening ahead, without question.
Every visit into here I always comment on the ongoing development of the small boatyard in the east corner, well, it's still developing!