X - Eventually we begin sailing!
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IX - The Sailaway re-fit.
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XI - Heading East once again.
Log Entry Tuesday 30th July - Our day starts very early, back to Kas Marina for a few days at least?
Our alarm wakes us at 0300 hours as set, the wind had disappeared as planned, the castle flag hanging limp high above us. All was ready to go, a quick cupper, then, on with our life jackets, on with our navigation lights and we begin to raise the anchor. There was a group of youngsters on a charter boat nearby still sitting chatting in their boat cockpit? Ann secured the anchor away and we made our way out of Üçagiz Limani, across and out of Kekova Roads, in complete darkness, no motion on the water other than us.
As we left Kekova several miles behind us heading west towards Kas, the sun begins to rise. The water flat glass but an uncomfortable swell (1-2 metres) at times making our trip a little more interesting, still it did not wake Ann below decks as she caught up on some needed sleep?
This trip was to be on motor alone, not a breath of wind, but again that was anticipated as any developing wind would in deed be against us, so on we pushed.
As we rounded "Akar Bögazi" to the west of the Roads we turned towards the collection of small islets and reefs between us and Kastellórizon.
In time we cut our path safely through, and, with the "Kas Peninsula" clearly ahead us, now only a matter of an hour or so before we make the marina. We arrive about 0800 hours, called in on the VHF and are seen to our usual berth.
Log Entry Monday 29th July - We leave for Finike and end up heading back in Kas.
We woke this morning with the intension of a trip 20 or so miles to the east, to Finike. We began our usual routine of packing away getting ready to travel. While putting the dinghy up on our davits we noticed a strange fearless companion in the water around the dinghy. It was almost a meter in length but strangely enough it appeared to be swimming upside down, it had a distinctive dorsal fin pointing down to the sea bed? We fed it on bread not once did it roll over, feeding well and close by taking the bread from the surface - strange creature?
[Added 13th August 2013]
With regards to the above pictures, the fish was recognised by a reader, he sent us the following:
It's called a Remora or 'sharksucker'.
I had a look on line and the results weren't
pleasing for yachties. Here are two quotes.
"In ancient times, the remora was believed to stop a ship from sailing. In Latin, remora means "delay", while the genus name Echeneis comes from Greek echein ("to hold") and naus ("a ship"). "
"There have also been reports of sharksucker's
causing damage to boats by attaching to the hulls with their sucking discs,
damaging the boat even to the point of even sinking it. "
from the other articles I read,I wouldn't go
swimming if the bugger is around. They say that they have been known to attach
themselves to a divers leg causing extreme pain. So stop feeding the bloody
thing ha ha.
We sit and wait for the favourable wind to come from the west as it does on a daily basis, as it begins we lift our anchor and make our way slowly down Kekova Roads. The traffic begins, canoeists crossing to visit the sunken city, gullets on the move to their next destination.
As we pass Kale Köy and it's castle it is encouraging to see so many vessels at anchor, more than we have ever seen at one time this trip? There are even a couple of sailboats tied to the normally empty, old restaurant quays.
We in time slowly approach the great bay to the east entrance of the Roads, Andraki now ahead of us, it's daily flow of trip boats heading our way?
It is then we realise we have a small problem on board, a problem with the solution only back in Kas. Ann and I discuss the options, then, we turn Sailaway around and head back into the Roads and drop our anchor in Üçagiz Limani. The prevailing winds now in full flow, would be problematic for us to try and return back to Kas now. Our return trip to Kas would be either very late this evening as the winds drop or a departure very early in the morning completing the return passage before the prevailing winds develop? As the winds remain well into the evening we decide to grab a few hours sleep, setting our alarm for 0300 hours!
Log Entry Sunday 28th July - We reacquaint ourselves with the Fisherman's Inn.
We are now in some what of a strange situation - we spent seven weeks driving across Europe, then six weeks getting Sailaway up to scratch. We have spent the last week relaxing, unfortunately now we are bored!
It seems longer than two years since our last visit, we spent over a week in this small cove during September of 2011. The "Fisherman's Inn" was then ran by a father and son, unfortunately they had lost their wife/mum in the January of that year. We became quite friendly, they would take Ann shopping, by boat of coarse and dispose of our garbage. They then had a Turkish sailor (Faruk) helping them during the summer, he lived on his sailboat on their pontoon.
As we sat at a table, enjoying the view it was good to see the father and son still working together, Faruk, we could not make out where he was, could be any where as he also worked part time as a commercial sailor?
The seating is so relaxing, the daily prevailing winds whistling over our heads, the sharp calls of the large birds of prey high above our heads can be heard as they hunt on the hilltops?
The food is "as was" two years ago, amazingly only 5tl more per head, but they have seriously loaded the alcohol prices. We chat as best possible with a French family on the next table, an interesting group.
The food, is all cooked on an open flame from olive wood and is as good as we remember. At least the portions are good here, in Üçagiz the prices were similar but the portions reduced significantly - every one has to make a living I guess?
We finish the evening off chatting and watching the birds of prey above our heads, as darkness falls we bid our farewells and return to Sailaway to catch a movie, action of coarse!
Log Entry Friday 26th July -We make a short trip to Yörük Ramazan (Fisherman's Inn).
This morning we pop ashore early to pick up supplies as it will be 3/4 days before we reach Finike and the next opportunity to purchase any further goods. We enjoy a free coffee and chat with our old friend Mehmet at his restaurant on the quay and bid him farewell promising to visit again in a couple of weeks. Once back on board we raise anchor and leave the Limani, we are to make a very short trip into Pölemos Bükü, to "Yörük Ramazan" which translates to the "Fisherman's Inn".
As we turn west in the Roads we cross a group of canoeists, making their way across to the sunken city on the seaward island, "Kekova Adasi". We visited the site two years ago by dinghy, very little to see at all, it requires a great deal of imagination. It is quite a distance for a non-canoeist to travel, hardly out of the Limani and the escort boat already has two struggling canoeists strapped along side? They have to come back yet, I guess an attractive outing to the more romantic of mind?
Heading west down the Roads, we pass Ölü, the leading light for night time navigation, the waters are very quiet indeed. We do pass a Turkish catamaran, flying a chute with the wind on his stern, he waves as we motor past.
We arrive at the anchorage, about five other vessels present, at least four of them left the Limani, and us yesterday. Such a short trip barely warrants the opening of a beer to celebrate a safe arrival but one must follow tradition and we settle down for a quiet but "gusty" afternoon as the prevailing wind develops.
Log Entry Thursday 25th July - Üçagiz Limani.
We always find Üçagiz to be an interesting village but this time so quiet, we almost have the place to ourselves, we check out the favourite of the two shops and walk along the back street behind the waterfront to the fruit shop we had last used two years ago. The village is always colourful and friendly, very little pressure to buy, just the question "Do you need ????"
We walk along to the square, the fruit shop is still there, we enquire on the pricing before we commit to buying which is the norm for us obviously. The prices hardly vary above 2-3tl/kilo, the locals and tourist boat guys shop here. The visitors mainly buy their fruit from the two supermarkets. The young girl is surprised to fact that we know about the large refrigerated storage room to the rear where the best is kept. The square is as far as the village front stretches, here the coaches drop off and the boat trips are sold. We are approached by a gent on a cycle inquiring if we would like a boat ride, Ann reply "no thanks, we have our own." He replied "Ok, can I come with you then?" I thought I heard Ann reply "Of coarse" but she denied that?
Once Ann stops blushing we return back along the front, as we had initially arrived a gent had helped us tie up the dinghy and took our rubbish from us so before we stocked up from the supermarket we were to repay his help with a cold drink from his restaurant.
We sat upstairs, perfect view of all going on. One drink led to another and a chat with the proprietor passed the afternoon. He was a little disappointed at how quiet the "tourist season" was, was the televised riots in Istanbul a possible cause? We have been asked by family "Have you seen much of the riots?" Greece suffer similar due the similar riots in Athens, and we were asked the same about riots in Greece? The "chat and people watching" leads on to dinner, then, time to shop for the few things we needed.
The marina was interesting from inside, while from the anchorage it appeared quite full, they was less than ten pleasure craft moored up, most commercial - there use to be a lot more than that at this time of year on the old restaurant pontoons below Kale Köy Castle? We meet up with another gent we became friendly with from our last visit from the restaurant next door (Mehmet) he too is concerned at the lack of visitors but is picked up with his statement "But we have the Sunsail flotilla in this evening!"
The small developing boatyard to the east of the Limani is clearly in it's early stages but it already has it first sunken Gullet?
We wake the next morning it is very peaceful in the eastern section, sitting behind Kale Köy Castle, it's lighting in the evening is quite picturesque. The shore line is scattered with ancient Lycian Tombs, it is said that these are also the ruins of the ancient city of "Teimiussa".
Looking up to the west side of the Limani in the morning the Sunsail fleet certainly did arrive all anchored, it is quiet normal to see them in marinas for comfort, a special price negotiated of coarse?
Log Entry Wednesday 24th July - We move east, on to Kekova Roads.
We quite enjoy our little anchorage, life on the water begins reasonably early, staff delivered to the Taverna, the tables and chairs to set - a daily occurrence.
The ferry from Rhodes sounds it's horn as it exits out of the small harbour, it is turned around in less than thirty minutes.
We relax until about lunch time to allow the prevailing winds to develop, they are forecast light today, but every little helps! We raise our anchor, almost immediately we raise our canvas, our engine remains on idle to replenish our batteries, a necessary evil unfortunately.
We now turn east and make our way through a series of small islands, unmanned, used extensively by the "day trip boats" supplying the tourist's needs. It is two years since we last followed this route, a good sail would be even more rewarding.
The winds lighten and eventually become too light for our genoa, up goes our cruising chute. We had been shadowed for some time by an English flagged sailboat, adding a little bit of competition to the relaxing sail?
The vessel had been slowly catching up on us, especially in the time we changed sails, the speed difference was marginal, it took over an hour to get past us.
The vessel carried on close to the coast, we continued out seaward, looking at steadier wind, that is what we found. The wind stiffened, too much for our chute so we turned towards land and put up our genoa - making 5 to 6 knots now!
As we approached the western entrance into Kekova, our companion entered just ahead of us, we had been catching him steadily - just ran out of time. Still, it is the participation that counts not the winning, not even sure he knew we were racing?
We entered the "Roads" but were surprised to see how quiet it was, two years ago we remembered having to dodge the trip boats? We continue on into Üçagiz Limani and drop anchor next to the winning vessel.
The activity here also begins early, first the small fishing vessels then the trip boats begin to move.
Two years ago when we were last here the restaurants to the front of the castle had been forced to remove their pontoons, we did speak to one proprietor who was furious about the action. They had just erected a new marina at that time, by the town of Üçagiz, the gentleman in charge tried to sell us a berth. It has developed well, appears quite busy, a boat repair yard has appeared to the east in the Limani.
Log Entry Sunday 21st July - We spend an interesting day in Meis
After a lazy day yesterday we feel refreshed, it is still hard to come to terms with what we have achieved in the previous weeks and under what conditions - mid 30C! As we are getting older approaching our "mid-life crisis" it does not get any easier? This morning we touch up our paint work, swim and shower then head off into Meis, our brief experience on Darren's boat the other evening gave us no view on neither the town, or it's inhabitants?
Meis is a strange town, so close to Turkey, it is written that if it's present stated inhabitants of 200 drops below 85 then it shall be surrendered to Turkey - that is debatable to me, it is Greek, through and through.
We tie up our dinghy at one of the waterfront cafes, we are welcomed and we order a cold drink, from there we take an overview of the town it 'self. The attitude is difficult to explain, there is little pressure on you to spend your cash - unlike Turkey, nothing seems an issue? We ask the proprietor where we deposit our garbage, he takes it from us without hesitation, no longer our problem? We like the town, it is not what we say is "typical Greek" far more laid back, almost horizontal! The harbour is busy but relaxing, a mix of old and new but colourfully decorated all the same.
We look around for points of interest, or a turtles interest in us, and, the smallest bank and cash point we have ever seen on the water front?
We end up just sitting at the cafe watching the world go by, I am approached by three people, Russian possibly? They are having trouble starting the engine on the outboard, they ask if I can help? They have just bought a 15 meter sailboat and know how nothing works? There outboard problem is that they need a form of key to start it, they know nothing as to it's where about's? I make some thing up from what they have on board, the engine starts, they thank me, and they disappear to explore the harbour and the outside area. It is always a little concerning to find these types of characters out in open water, responsible for "lives" but fortunately an infrequent experience?
We then head off around the eastern section of the town, very quaint and relaxed.
The eastern section is no different the town is full of natural colour, behind a little derelict but it is amazing as to how clear the harbour water is, many people swimming in the perfectly clear water.
Log Entry Saturday 20th July - a surprise early start to the day. (54)
We are awoken at 0500, a small boat engine is nearby and a Greek voice shouts "Captain, Captain!" I climb up on deck to be told there is a large ship coming in, we are in its path? Although a little suspicious at first, sure enough it can soon be seen rounding the headland. We raise our anchor as do others creating a pathway in - pointless going back to be now, a long day ahead.
Log Entry Friday 19th July - we pack up and leave the marina for some time.
Today has long been awaited, we have every thing packed on board, cycles and all. The intension being to leave the marina and begin life at anchor as we love. It will certainly be welcomed, our day sailing gave us a real want however "equipment failures" and final modifications to our waste water system have kept us busy for some days. We are still awaiting two components to be delivered, a fuel shut off valve for our outboard which should have arrived yesterday and a new solar panel/wind generator control unit due in a couple of weeks. The outboard valve is for our smaller engine so we have an alternative to utilise until we return.
We leave our berth and head over to the fuelling station taking on a couple of hundred litres of fuel to see us over the coming weeks. We also wish to try our waste tank deck pump out, and gain some litres of "Black Water" on our "Blue Card" (see Sailaway Refit using above link) that, unfortunately we have to wait for the pump out, the guy is on his lunch? He returns at 1300 hours as previously informed, the tank pumps out well and Ann walks up to the Marina office to have 150 litres registered on our card.
It is then time to leave, fuelling and lunch breaks delayed us for over an hour, still, no rush our destination is Kastellórizon, the close by Greek Island.
We have a saying "sods law", I am sure all know it - we are almost at the seaward exit of Buçak Deniz, Ann hears our Turkish telephone. It is Mehmet from Technical Services, our fuel shut off valve has arrived, we were told likely Monday? We look at each other and decide to return to pick it up, we drop our mainsail to make life easier, put the wind behind us and sail down to the bay in which Technical Services and the fuelling station are located. We tie up on the quay and collect the valve.
We are then off for a second time, the winds relatively light but we make good way south east across towards Kastellórizon
Not sure if it us but the traffic on the water seems very light, certainly compared to last year, most tradesmen are complaining about the lack of tourists?
We are fortunate the winds allow us to sail into the anchorage, we will settle ourselves down, grab a bite to eat then head into town to meet up with Ian, Adrianne, Darren and Marina - they arrived yesterday for the local festival.
We barely had the engine off and curiosity was seen, a large logger head turtle circles us for a few minutes and then disappears, always good to see.
Sitting in the peace of the anchorage enjoying the cooling breeze we put "Plant" out in the sun where she prefers, hard to believe how she has grown since we left England in May. She certainly looks no worse for the 4500 miles she has traveled. Ann thinks I am nuts, I think it is jealousy!
We drop our dinghy and fit the engine with it's new valve, not without further issues the shear pin holding the propeller drive shears for some reason it is repaired. In time we head over into the town of Meis, taking our dinghy into the harbour we recognise Darren swimming in the water, cooling down. We join our friends on board and spent a pleasant evening in the quaint little town. We also bump into Fabienne & Christophe, a French couple we wintered with at Yacht Classic the winter before last (2011) they too are in our anchorage.
Log Entry Monday 15th July - Our first sail, a day well over due!
Today has been scheduled for three or four days now, a "good shake out" to make sure all is good, every thing has been fitted or replaced correctly. We are to be joined by our friends Ian, Adrianne and Tina, all who have helped us get to where we are. The forecast, as per this time of year is for light winds, the plan is just to utilise what winds we can, drop anchor some where for lunch, a swim perhaps, drink some beer, then return later in the day.
We are all aboard by 1000 hours, we call up the marina staff and depart our berth.
As we make our way out of Buçak Deniz, the winds are very light and fickle, our mainsail is raised almost immediately, it is only as we reach the entrance to Buçak Deniz does the wind become stable enougth to utilise - out goes our headsail and off our engine.
We have no destination as such, our coarse adjusted to favour the wind direction and keep us moving. As the wind lightens further and comes around to the beam Ian and I prepare the cruising chute with Tina at the wheel holding the wind.
As the headsail collapses repetitively with the lightening wind up goes the cruising chute - now we are sailing!
We play with what wind we can, with lunch time approaching we seek a suitable anchorage, motoring in with what was now a developing, a reasonable head wind, a great sail back to Kas anticipated, or rather hoped for?
The anchorage was lovely, very picturesque, the water perfectly clear, we drop our anchor in about four meters of water.
A cooling swim was now what was needed.
Ann then sets about providing a suitable feast as we chatted, once "fed and watered" and out of beer, we prepare to return to Kas. The time had passed so quickly we had perhaps over stayed a little and missed the wind. We were however able to sail through the anchorage with the cruising chute, the wind eventually disappearing completely, on went the engine and we motored back.
During the trip back we reflected on the day and formulated a plan for the evening "Happy Hour on Sailaway!" As we secured Sailaway at the berth the crew picked up some cool supply's which along with the conversation took us well into the evening. A great day overall with only a couple of minor resulting jobs for the next day as a result of our sea trials.