Turkey IV - Göçek and Fethiye.
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Turkey III - Göçek and Fethiye.
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Turkey V - East of Fethiye, Kas, Kalkan & Kekova Roads.
Captain Eddy Chandlery - You may have, or will read
that we used this well establish company in Fethiye and had issues? The organisation
to us was fast to deliver a solution to our problem, although it was not correct?
Once the issue was raised they were very evasive, did not return calls etc?
It took us, "an indirect path" to resolve our issue and once the corrective
action was agreed it took repetitive visits to conclude fully - Beware!
(If you require any further information please do not hesitate to contact us.)
Log Entry Friday 26th August - Plenty going on at Sarsala!
This is our final day in Sarsala, tomorrow shows signs of a good winds forecast for us, time to leave our favourite bay in Skopea Limani? Today, while sitting up on deck the Limani gets an unusual visitor - a seaplane? It came down quickly from the sky landing in a quiet section of water. The plane seemed to have no true reason for landing, we were not expecting company so it clearly had nothing to do with us?
The seaplane then began to make it's way north, moving between the vessels making their way over to see it? It turned to the south, into the wind and left "skimming" past vessels and finally taking to the air and disappearing.
A further shipment arrived at the small dock at Sarsala, two boats full of goats, an elderly lady led the boys as they unloaded their cargo into an awaiting truck.
The goats numbered ten or twelve squeezed into the small craft, their legs bound to keep them still. One by one they cut the lines that bound their legs and either carried or led them to the truck. When the elderly lady left the dock climbing back into the boat she collected the cut lines, they obviously had some value to her?
Log Entry Tuesday 23rd August - Our engine working once again!.
We have to travel to Dalaman to pick up the new water pump and gaskets today, we also decide to visit one of the larger supermarket while there and stock up as very little is available to us here - it also helps justify the taxi fare further in one's own mind, Dalaman being 45 minutes away, it is not cheap? We have a couple of quite unique visitors to the bay today, firstly the old Bosphorus ferry, now converted to a private yacht named "Halsa". It is beautiful to look at and has every toy imaginable aboard to keeps it's owner and guests occupied. The second is a "toilet pump out" vessel, although they say holding tanks are a must in this Limani which is a great idea, to discharge one's waste beyond the islands is a bit of a nonsense as prevailing winds and resulting currents will only bring it back in? It was good to see the vessel in use but it displayed no telephone or VHF contact details - not sure how that works? The Turks appear to us to be far more ecologically friendly, that is visible in the water also, more fish can be seen, vegetation a little bit more scarce, but in time one never knows. It would be good to see these efforts extended further into the Mediterranean.
We find our taxi driver, agree a schedule to include parts and our shopping trip, and of coarse the price. We also had him call our parts supplier to confirm that they would be there today, it would have been a very expensive trip to have to repeat tomorrow? We head to Dalaman, it was quite an interesting trip, our driver was not one for "hanging around?" Shortly after negotiating the tree around which the road has been extended, obviously passing it on the correct side as on coming traffic use the other side, we join the main road from Dalaman to it's airport. It is a dual carriage way, one side is being re laid so the remaining two lanes are shared? Just before I took the picture above the driver passed through the cones and used the other side to over take a slower car in front? He was a very pleasant chap, married to an English woman, on our way back to Sailaway he asked if we could stop at his house for a moment? We agreed and we briefly met his English wife, they gave us a gift of figs and grapes from their garden.
Once back onboard the work began, the engine camshaft belt was due a "precautionary exchange" as the manual calls it? We completed the exchange as it eliminated a further strip down during the winter? The coolant pump was a Turkish copy, I have to say we probably did pay a full Ford price? Turkish people are very good, as many others are at converting an opportunity? The machining of pump had not been completed, I copied the relevant Ford dimensions as best as I could by hand and fitted the pump?
With all reassembled it was time for that moment - to turn the key and see if we got it right? I always use the word "we" as it helps share blame should the need arise? Obviously all went well and all was back to normal, we had been using our little noisy generator to charge our batteries to keep our fridge running - that had made us quite unpopular, but needs must?
As I had been working on the engine, Ann had done a great job on the hull, cleaning off the "Fethiye growth", with the engine running well it was time for a break - the buttery fly caught our attention in our cockpit.
Log Entry Sunday 21st August - A busy Sunday it is for all?
We now have an engine with the front stripped down awaiting the new coolant pump? A thought crossed my mind, the camshaft belt was due for "precautionary replacement" as they call it in the manual - it was on the winter job list. It would make sense to do it now as the engine was stripped, almost ready. Ann and I set about the task, killed a few hours anyway?
All we had to do in the late afternoon was to watch the world go by? Sarsala, as I have said previously is very much a locals beach, the holiday season must be in full swing here as we have never seen it so busy on land? The quay is constantly busy with the delivery vessels supplying the various restaurants with their needs, every thing from water supply to sewerage removal in some cases.
The beach is crowded, cars and people every where, people were in the water from about 0730 this morning.
We were attacked by one vessel, they are all driven by the single cylinder diesel engines that merrily thump away, day after day. This vessel had the strangest passengers yet seen, two men, a donkey, a goat and a sheep? The boat pulled up at the quay, the livestock climbed off with relative ease, as if they had done the trip many times? Off they disappeared up the hill to "where ever?"
It was time for us to burst into action, we had a quick look at the growth below, a clean certainly needed, Ann and I spent an hour on it, the rest to be completed in the morning? While in the water Ann was called by the skipper of a small gullet, he asked if we could move off the buoy as his engine had failed and his anchor was dragging? Ann explained we were in the same situation, I came out of the water and went over in the dinghy to see if I could be of assistance but he declined, just then his mate got the engine running. The gullet and it's English passengers swiftly disappeared.
Log Entry Saturday 20th August - Not quite our lucky year, yet more bad news, this time engine failure, but what a great place to be stranded, our favourite bay - Sarsala?
Yesterday we were on deck with our engine running to charge our batteries, not a lot going on so we were taking it easy, talking about leave early in the morning. The only thing out standing was to give Sailaway's hull a good clean, removing any growth that may have accumulated? We are always in the habit of checking the engine gauges, in time we noticed the engine temperature was a little high, usually it was always steady? The temperature began to rise slowly, we stopped the engine to investigate. When removing the engine bay panels it was notice that the coolant system was leaking from the from of the engine block in the area of the pulley drive belts? Further strip down, the removal of the alternator and sea water cooling drive belts reveled a worn fresh water circulation pump, it's bearings had collapsed and the fluid was leaking past it's seal?
It was a good thing that I had my trusty mechanic on board (Ann), we both set about the engine once it had cooled a little, the out side temperature was 35C so down below was even warmer. If we had been back in the UK we could have contacted the union representative and had some air conditioning units brought in before we would agree to start work. Still this is Turkey, another job to be done the sooner we start, the sooner we finish as they say? I thought it easier to remove the damaged pump as it would be easier to explain to "some one" what we needed. The "some one" was the next problem, Sarsala is literally at the end of the road, any thing further south of us is serviced by boat? Then there was the question do we head for Dalaman, Göçek or Fethiye - please not back to Fethiye? The next problem was - how do we get there, it was clear we needed some local help, local reliable help? The good thing was that Sailaway was on a buoy, secure no matter the weather, we went ashore armed with the broken pump and the engine manual. Our engine is a converted Ford diesel so we stand a good chance of getting what we need from a good car parts store? We went ashore and made our way to the beach bar, we thought we would start there looking for help? Inside, having a drink were three "Jandarma Officers" (Police) - who better to trust with our problem? I waited until they had finished and looked as if they were getting to leave and I walked over to the officer in charge and with manual and pump tried to explain our problem, he asked if I spoke German as his English was poor? When I said no he called one of the staff over who spoke a little English, we made some progress then he picked up his mobile and made a call? He then explained via the translator that he would take us to Dalaman, to a store who would have to identify, then order the part from Izmir. He apologised but he said we would have to find our own way back, I thanked him and Ann and I left with them. They had a twin cab open back truck, we were asked to climb in the back of the cab, the machine guns were removed to make more room for us, the third officer and another local scrounging a lift jumped into the back and sat on a bench.
We climbed high up into the hillside, the road barely wide enough for one vehicle, but all pulled over for the Jandarma as there is tremendous respect for the authorities here in Turkey. One could not imagine some one "back chatting" an officer, let alone any of the far worse abuse our UK police have to deal with?
The drive was fast, all we needed was the siren, the scenery was wild and beautiful, we climbed high up over the bays, as we reached the plateau we came across an enormous lake, spreading out far into the distance.
We then came across numerous properties, obviously all involved in agriculture, nearly all had some thing by the road side to sell, fruit or vegetables?
The ride was interesting, we came to the rear of Dalaman airport before we saw any thing that resembled "modern civilisation" and then turned toward the town centre.
We were then driven through Dalaman, out into the countryside once again, eventually we turned into what we could only describe as a "Trading Estate" all to do with car and motorcycle repairs of any kind. It resembled a wild west town, it even had it's own market and cafe - we would never have found it in a million years?
I expected the officer to pull up and tell us where to go, but no, the Officer led me through a door way of a building full to brim with "stuff", there was a long counter and a matching cue. The cue was not a problem to us as the Officer walked to the front and via "his presence" sort attention, which he received of coarse? I pulled out the pump and engine manual, the Officer did all the talking, the man behind the counter made a call. He then took a photograph of the broken pump with his mobile and sent it off some where?
After this the Officer beckoned me out side where Ann had kept herself busy and explained he must leave now, the man behind the counter will help us - the three officers drove off leaving Ann and I behind in the now chaotic store, but I was recalled to the front of the counter. With hands and a few words we were given a price, and told the pump and gaskets will be here Monday - good job done, we would never archived this without such assistance!
As we walked out, I could remember which direction we came but it was quite a distance to the town to find a cab and make our way back? We must have looked lost as a Turkish man asked us in English "do you need a cab?" He had been in the cue, he knew we were on a boat at Sarsala, he then used his mobile and called us a cab? While we were waiting he explains to us that he actually has an English wife, that is how he learnt to speak the language. Most people in the UK that have holidayed in Turkey know of Dalaman Airport, many pass through but it was clearly, almost untouched by the tourist trade, we were surprised? We had a look around, most shops available, we were even able to purchase (with difficulty) new walkie talkies at a good price, ours had failed only last week? They are extremely useful to have as it is not always possible to hear one shout from one end of Sailaway to the other, be it due to noise from the wind or engine?
Before our taxi ride back to Sarsala we had lunch in a very traditional cafe, a fixed menu was served, the food was good.
Log Entry Wednesday 17th August - at last we leave Fethiye, fourteen days to complete our battery exchange, we would recommend "Captain Eddy" to any one????
It took me an hour or so to re-route some of the cables to the domestic batteries, Ann did some last minute shopping?
By about 1300 hours all was clear and we slipped our lines and left the pontoon and made our way out of the harbour.
Our attention was caught by a catamaran leaving the nearby marina being pursued by the marina rib - money must be owed we guess, but it is just a guess? The afternoon winds had stiffened some what so we put a reef in our mainsail and began "beating" against the wind making our way south. Once out into the bay it was quite busy most beating as we were, all reefed. We stayed parallel to a charter sailboat for some time, it was clear we were unofficially racing - a father and son team watching our every move?
It took some time so get past "Fethiye Adasi" the wind had stiffened so much, the sea then building against us. We had plenty of time so we sat back, kept Sailaway on the auto pilot and watched the world go by as we tacked south?
As the afternoon progressed the wind began to drop so we shook out the reefs, taking us back to full sail - the sky clouded over and for the first time in months we lost the sun, Ann cheered!
Within and hour or so the wind had gone completely and on went the engine, we turned due south and bounced in the swell. We were to take the small channel between the mainland and Domuz Adasi, we would then head east into Sarsala Bay.
The bay itself was quite busy but we were able to pick up our favourite buoy, it stands out from the rest, in front of the beach. We are soon tied up and secure.
There is only one thing to do after such a journey, head ashore to our favourite beach restaurant and celebrate our safe arrival - and that's what we did!
Log Entry Tuesday 16th August - The end of our battery saga with "Captain Eddy" is in sight?
The battery installation was not completed last night, primarily trying to work in the dark was an issue? Secondly the main power cables need replacing to allow access to the batteries for maintenance etc. That has been promised for completion today. Today we plan to take Sailaway on to the Yacht Classic Hotel pontoon, stay there this evening and in the morning, if the work is complete stock up and leave Fethiye to continue east. We first need to stop off at one of the bays in "Skopea Limani", probably our favourite, "Sarsala Bay" and clean Sailaway's hull. Two weeks of sitting in this water here in Fethiye has provided us with a layer of growth, most of which will fall off once we start to move but the cleaner the bottom, the better she sails (Sailaway, not Ann?).
As the guys worked last night Ann stayed over in the hotel bar with some of the people we have met locally, when the guys had finished all they could do I went to over to pick Ann up. She was as drunk as a skunk! Only joking, we ended up staying for a couple of drinks and that progressed to dinner and a very late night/early morning. To beat all, I could not pay the bill as I was not carrying enough cash - the staff thought I was joking? I offered Ann as a hostage until I returned with the money but, I think they were fearful that I may not return and said to pay tomorrow?
We took Sailaway in early, it gives us a good opportunity to wash away all of the salt gathered on board with fresh water, the ropes especially, they harden and make them difficult to work with.
Once our work was done we were able to relax, use the pool and all of the facilities. We called "Captain Eddy" several times as the day went on - our calls were never answered of coarse, which was usual? I had by 1800 hours decided that they were not coming, so I spent some time looking at the job, I had the materials to complete it myself early in the morning, then we could leave as planned. If they turned up in the morning I was going to ask them to leave! We were talking to a friend (Ernst of Kibo) about the bays in the Limani, he has a female friend coming and was enquiring as to where they could go? Ann suggested that she returned to Sailaway and bring back our pilot book so we could talk in detail about the places we had visited? She returned without the book as when she had climbed on board two men were indeed working on our battery installation. I returned to Sailaway as they wanted to speak with me. I had lots of reasons as to why they were late and our calls were not answered, but that was usual with these people?
The work was eventually completed, again, mainly in the dark or by torch light about 2130 hours - minor outstanding points to be cleared up but I said I would complete them in the morning. It had taken this company (Captain Eddy) 14 days to exchange two batteries, must be a record?
For the use of the pontoon they charge you 20TL per evening for water and electric (approximately £8) and you have to dine there on an evening, the food is good and reasonably priced - alcohol is the costly thing as it is any where in Turkey?
Log Entry Monday 15th August - We renew our Turkish Visas in Rhodes (Greece).
Our visits to Turkey are restricted to 90 days, this is how long your visa lasts. Sailaway can stay in Turkey for up to five years and so she should when you consider the process and cost to get her registered? It is easier for us to leave Sailaway in Turkey, rather than process her out of Turkey, into Greece, then back into Turkey again. We will take the hydrofoil ferry from Fethiye to Rhodes, (or Rodos, as the Turks say?) at a cost of €120. We were booked on the ferry last Friday, we were boarded, the engines started, then they were then stopped and we were informed the weather was too bad at Rhodes? We were surprised we were even boarded as the 0600 the forecast said winds of 30-40 knots (a gale) - there must have been some benefit to some one to take the process so far?
This time it was all go, we left a little later than scheduled but this is Turkey, we slipped out of the harbour, the water as calm as could be, nothing like Friday?
Ann thought I should sit in the forward cabin section - just in case the Captain got into difficulties, is she making fun of me I wonder? Plenty to watch as we make our way out of the natural harbour, out between the islands.
It was fairly bumpy trip and will only a slight wind behind us, it takes about 1 hour 40 minutes "southish" to Rhodes, the city fortifications soon come into view as one arrives.
We have about five hours to kill before we return, we have no definite plans and certainly no requirements, the first thing one becomes acutely aware of is the much higher price of "all things" Our plan is not to walk too far, we know the city well from our weeks stay here.
Once out of Customs we turn into the old Medieval town, just off the harbour, this will be our "stomping ground" for the next few hours.
This section of Rhodes has well documented history, much is still there to be seen, along with the "touristy shops" of which we have no interest - we walk around saying "How much!" many of the items available in Turkey at a fraction of the cost?
Well, in situations like this, the only thing to do I feel, is to find a comfortable seat, with refreshments available and pass the time "people watching", which is exactly what we do in one of the many cafes.
Time soon passes, the picture below is a reflection of the moment - I had just been handed the bill and realised we were paying €7/beer!
And to cap it all the waiter asked if we would be returning later for some thing to eat!
One really positive bit of news is that our replacement batteries are with "Captain Eddy" and the installation will take place this evening. They eventually turned up, it had already turned dark, therefore the majority of the work had to be completed in the dark? The installation did not go well and needed re-doing in the morning?