Turkey II - Göçek and Fethiye.
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Turkey I - Marmaris Limani.
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Turkey III - Göçek and Fethiye
Captain Eddy Chandlery - You may have, or will read
that we used this well establish company in Fethiye and had issues? The organisation
to us was fast to deliver a solution to our problem, although it was not correct?
Once the issue was raised they were very evasive, did not return calls etc?
It took us, "an indirect path" to resolve our issue and once the corrective
action was agreed it took repetitive visits to conclude fully - Beware!
(If you require any further information please do not hesitate to contact us.)
Log Entry Sunday 17th July - We decide to fit a fresh water shower to the stern and take a trip round the bay in the dinghy.
We had been talking about fitting a fresh water shower tap to our stern for some time, to wash ourselves down after swimming. We currently use a solar shower bag, but the shower tap had been put on the "winter job list". While left alone in "Captain Eddy's Chandlery" Kevin had purchased all he needed for 20Tl (less than £10), all it needed was the labour? Any job is never straight forward on a boat, this one included running water pipe through to the stern them 16mm diameter hole was needed in our 5mm thick steel deck. The nearest we could drill was 10mm, Kevin then hand filed it to size - all in 40C! It took us seven hours to complete, but well worth while.
Once we had recovered we took the dinghy out for a spin, it was interesting to see the shore of the bay we had up until now only seen from a distance. There were many interesting winter opportunities for us for this winter, many small attractive waterside restaurants.
We made mental notes of the numerous small town quays, it was clear some boats had not moved for some time.
We end up ashore in a beach restaurant from where we had heard music many times from across the bay - could be a stop over for Lee, Trish and the kids when they arrive tomorrow?
It is very much a "locals place" as we call them, this is evident in the pricing too. As darkness falls a guitarist works hard on the stage, there is music every night we are told.
Log Entry Friday 15th July - Our domestic batteries fail in the blistering heat!
Our batteries had been of some concern for some days now, as was our fridge, running almost none stop to keep things cool in the now 30 min.- 40C max. temperatures. It is clear we are short of battery capacity, but space is a real issue, our batteries are now dying? We discuss our issues with a local company "Captain Eddy" and are offered high tech deep cycle at a relatively "high price" in comparison, but it offers us 400AH for the same physical space of our existing 200AH - we go for it! For an extra 50TL they offer to fit them, test them, we have concerns about the battery fastenings so we go for the package, and were glad we did - they do a great job in our opinion.
Following the installation, Kevin runs the electrician back through the ECE Marina, on his return we are joined by four dolphins in the bay.
Ann catches one on camera.
Log Entry Thursday 14th July - We really take to Fethiye!
Fethiye is quite a compact town, it has every thing one needs, Sailaway sits in a safe anchorage, the prevailing winds can get a little strong but the holding is good. We are over looked and over seen by a very modern Mosque, which must be a blessing in itself?
Apart from the excellant supermarkets there are the small cafe type back streets, really good for lunch.
Off the anchorage sits the Yacht Classic Hotel, cleverly offering their pontoon free to dinners at their restaurant, you are charged 20Tl for electric and water only, and the food is brilliant too - must try the pontoons? We leave our dinghy at their pontoon, no issues there either?
Log Entry Wednesday 13th July - We move north to Fethiye.
Today we intent to move north to Fethiye, the largest town in this great bay, we had tried yesterday but some thing stopped us - no wind at all?. The predominant winds are "southish", so we will await there arrival around lunch time and sail as much as possible, very wise at almost £9/gallon?
The morning starts as normal, in and out of the water, chat, laze around, drink coffee and tea. The bread man arrives, I have my normal, short conversation with him, today's topic was the lack of boats in the bays? He confirms it is very quite, "not good for all" he declares, and rightly so as a lot of people depend on the summer income. I wish him and his wife farewell, and he leaves us to chase the only other boat in the bay? There were only a couple of vessels with us when we woke, all but one had left, we/I are now getting restless. We decide to leave a little early, the batteries need their "am charge", so we start the engine and prepare to leave. I make my way ashore to loosen and retrieve our shore line.
In no time at all we are out of "Deep Bay" making our way north east through Skopea Limani, we almost have the whole area to ourselves, only one gullet in the distance to be seen and it's almost 1030 hours?
As we round "Tersane Island" the wind begins to arrive. Here is a strange arrangement for you, within Skopea Limani you are held to using holding tanks for waste water etc? Skopea Limani occupies about one third of great bay "Fethiye Körfezi, as there are no real tank emptying facilities, yachts are instructed to pump out their tanks beyond the islands that enclose Skopea Limani - work that out?
We make our way towards Fethiye and Fethiye Island, the wind gaining in strength, becoming quite a pleasant sail.
And of coarse, there is always time for a phone call from mum, irrespective of weather we are sinking, in danger, whatever - all has to wait? In fact her first words were "Who has been on that phone, I've been trying to call?"
We are taking the channel to the south of nearby "Kizil Island", better winds for us, we are soon to the channel between "Fethiye Island" and "Calmi Br." off the mainland. There stands quite an impressive light house, which, when we look closely, "doubles" as a restaurant - enterprising?
We now meet traffic making for, and leaving Fethiye, the wind by now well established.
As we sail into Fethiye Bay, we pass the expected tourist resorts, the marked bays and anchorages still very quiet, mainly gullets, we see only one private vessel anchored off in more than three bays?
Once into the bay we head to a posted anchorage to see if it is still in place, they have removed all anchorages in Gocek, forcing all into marinas, at a cost obviously.
Once secured we decide to make a quick trip ashore, check out the facilities and, one of the priorities is "a cold beer". We grab the first waterside cafe we come across and get settled for an hour or so?.
We from there, in time, make a quick trip into the town, fresh fruit, yogurt and salad must be sort, and of coarse one can use the cooling water spouts on the way if needed, it's 35C in the shade?
We grab some supplies from a nearby supermarket and visit some thing we have not seen for some time a "cash point".
The side streets off the main road are made out to look like traditional bazaars, plenty to offer all, if interested? We head back to Sailaway, and I have to say I weakened, on the main road we called into one of the smaller supermarkets and bought beer? After I completed the sales transaction I felt so guilty, this was the first alcohol we had purchased for about four days. I pulled together my emotions, all Ann wanted to do was open one - but I made her wait until we got back to Sailaway!
We sat back at the anchorage, after dinner, drinking beer, chatting and watching the sun go down, tomorrow is another day?
Log Entry Friday 8th July - Our trip to Tomb Bay in the dinghy.
We wake reasonably early and climb on deck for our usual cupper! The bay it's self is completely empty, only the gullet to our north remains, slow moving life can be seen on deck, all wearing dark glasses - the evils of alcohol no doubt? We had slept well and had not heard a sound from any one during the night.
There followed another interesting day, I once again fully occupied, fixing things? We have been quite unlucky this year with equipment failure, we keep verbally listing the failures and their associated costs - quite frightening really? Still, our choice of life style is ours, therefore we are responsibly for the associated costs, the up keep of a live aboard sailboat is not cheep? To not repair or maintain Sailaway would only mean at minimum, the demise of our home, or even total loss at sea? The second phase of the break downs is to email Lee and Trish, soon to join us and have them bring out either replacements or spare parts used in the fixing, we are quite self sufficient. Trish is more than happy to help, only occasionally mentioning having to buy a new suitcase, or take some shoes or "stuff" out of her case?
We finish the day by heading a mile or so north to the next bay, "Tomb Bay", it is much larger than any we have visited at present. There must be fifty or so boats moored there, with what seems like a dozen or more all moving at once. Amongst all that parasailing and water skiing going on all around it? It could be summarised as the equivalent of a floating tourist resort, and at the head of the bay, The Normad Restaurant, which is where we were heading for a deliciously cold beer, or two?.
The restaurant well placed to allow you to drink and watch what is going on, our favourite condition? They were very helpful with our dinghy, assisting with our tie up and even climb out - must be our age I think! The beer was cold and went down well, the menu was, as all the others, mezine (cold buffet) with main coarse. They did however boast the best chips ever made?
The setup is quite good, if you want a quay to tie up on, many do, I guess it is the company for many that drive them to such restaurants to moor up? They did not even offer water to the boats, you had to use the Water Station across the bay @ 15c/litre, about £70.00 for us to fill up so our watermaker is very important to us. You could however have a shave and various other associated services?
As we finished our drinks and paid our bill we were taken by the arrival of an old sea dog (sorry), clearly lived on boats all of it's life, but amazing to watch? We will not bring Sailaway into this bay, it is not our thing for a number of reasons?
Log Entry Thursday 7th July - Our first fish dinner for quite a while?
I believe we have mentioned a few times about the price of fish in the Mediterranean, every one seems to either fish, has fishermen in their family, or knows a fisherman, but the price still is remarkably high - where is the logic in that? We have paid the equivalent of £26.00 for a fish! That's just a fish, the boat it was caught in was not included in the price, still, locally it is a good price - enough about the price of fish? At last, we, or rather Ann, gets to prepare our seabass, purchased from the fishing boat, before we left Sarsala Isk. In fact. it was truly a join effort as the seller had cleaned it but the head and tail was left on - Ann will not eat a fish like that, so for my part I have to remove it's head and tail, then sit back and eat it!.
The fish, once cooked, is lovely, I am tempted to say "the best fish we had for a long time", but it is the only fish we have had since Pilos (Greece). There was however too much for two people but we made our way through it, washing it down with delicious cold water! It was such a size that once devoured, all that was left to do once I had washed up, was to retire early?
A gullet had settled next to us, it's paying guests obviously able to smell our wonderful dinner had clearly demanded the same standard. The cook must have offered them a barbeque, as they do, we thought the gullet was on fire at one stage? I almost popped over to offered my assistance with regards to lighting barbeques, but Ann said not to bother as she was sure they would be OK? I reluctantly agreed and we retired early.
Log Entry Wednesday 6th July - we move on north, to one of the next anchorages in this great bay?
Last night, in the restaurant we met up with Tristan Rutherford and Kathryn Tomasetti established travel writer for the likes of the Sunday Times, The Guardian etc. We had dropped them off at their sailboat, and in return they presented us with their latest published, travel guide, The National Geographic Traveler: "Istanbul & Western Turkey". We had not realised who they were until we read about them, "The Authors" in the book? We thought they were just desperate for a lift that's why they put up with us for a couple of hours?
Joking aside, the book will be of great assistance to us as we travel through Turkey, this year and very likely next year too! Good luck to them both, and good luck with there latest novel!
Eventually, they managed to escape Ann's continuous barrage of questions, I did suggest to Tristan that if he could not find her switch to remove her batteries? We said farewell, both boats left at the same time but in different directions, Tristan and Kathryn both assured us it was nothing personal?
The bay we were heading for was actually less than a mile north, but we soon had our canvas up and in light winds, sailing north. The traffic was beginning to pick up, and of coarse a "photo opportunity" for Ann as she muttered some thing about the Titanic?
We sat and chat as we pass the bays on the west side, the plan was to sail north for some time, then back south to "an anchorage?" The larger bays were already full of boats selling their wares, usually related to high speed.
We continued north for an hour or so at a slow pace, enjoying the sail and pleasant scenery? It is unreal at times as to how the charter vessels have little perception of sailing, most never lift their canvas - engine on and off they go, which is OK if that what you wish? The other point is they always want to pass in front of you, no matter what, never behind, as this guy came across us I asked if they wanted milk and sugar in their coffee - no acknowledgement at all?
We double back, sailing in to "Deep Bay" this bay too is "buoyed" one ties with a line back ashore. The anchorage cuts well back, steep hillside all around, very picturesque.
The traffic outside seems to demise, all need to be tied up some where for lunch I guess? The ice scream man arrives in his small boat, he wishes us well again in our new anchorage? I jokingly ask for discount for "good customers", he gives us a reduction of 2TL on two ice screams totaling 12TL and bids us farewell. Following a snorkeling session around the bay. we put out the hammock for Ann - Ann hears goats?
Every one knows Ann likes the sound of goats in the hillside, so do I actually, a real, live but isolated sound? Is that under stood, or is it an age thing? I work through almost thirty photographs as Ann tried to followed them down the hillside to the small beach next to us?
Log Entry Tuesday 5th July - We keep our selves busy, but miss an opportunity?
We keep ourselves busy, a boat and its contents have to be maintained, or improved?
Our boat is steel an you know, our rigging mounts are steel, welded to the deck, good and strong. The rigging bottle screws are secured to the welded flanges on the deck. To eliminate any strain on the steel the welded flanges are bushed with stainless steel inserts - the theory it it eliminates rust and therefore the annoying yellow streaks down the hull? It does not work, the only way we have been able to eliminate these yellow streaks is to coat the lower flange assembly with white marine grease. The sun soon turns it a "dirt white" and as it was exposed, one easily catches it with ones foot and therefore transfers the grease around? To eliminate all of that we stay with the marine grease but Ann has made gaiters to fully enclose the grease. Therefore much more pleasing to the eye although I will miss the call "I think this is grease!" Still one cannot have every thing in life? The patent is applied for, they are readily available from us to all steel boat owners at €15 each, in a choice of five colours - postage additional at cost?
We are so busy with the gaiters we miss a passing boat, but we notice there activity with a nearby Turkish flagged vessel. They are not only selling something but they are also cooking it before they pass it over to the purchaser? We are so busy with "what is it - etc, etc, etc" our debate sees them pass by without even an interest in our good selves - what were they selling? We were convinced it was fish and were later approached by two guys selling fish. Our taste buds, now in full swing resulted in us calling them over. We purchase a seabass (2.2kg @ 60TL = £24) what the hell we thought to ourselves, fish is unbelievably expensive in the Mediterranean. We have seen it priced at €60 - 79/kilo many times in restaurants, so we feel we have a bargain. I ask about calamari, not exactly Ann's favourite, but certainly mine! We are unsure as how to prepare or cook it? The guy gives us quite a large calamari, we thank him, but I think the look on my face told told it all? "Shall I clean it for you?" I watched so I am now good to go with any calamari? As the guys left they said they would call tomorrow to see if we like the fish, we bid them farewell. We were going to keep the fish for tomorrow, tonight we were going to eat ashore in the small beach restaurant, the calamari was how ever fried and eaten within the hour?
Log Entry Sunday 3rd July - The anchorage of Sarsala Isk.
We have settled into the anchorage very well, we find it a good mix of isolation and beauty, the afternoon prevailing winds can be a little strong but they do add a lovely cooling effect and good charge to our batteries?
It is not the busiest anchorage in this south sector of the bay, the adjacent "22 Fathom Bay, Wall Bay and Kapi Creek" all boast their own exclusive restaurants which attracts the holiday makers and charter vessels. This anchorage seems more reserved for local boats and working Gullets supplying a quiet evening at anchor - and then of coarse there is us!
The back drop of the small bay is very attractive, the mountains to the north and east very dominant although never appear to be totally, visibly clear?
The daily barrage of "boat boys" as we call them can supply you with any thing from the daily bread, home grown produce (from salad, cheese to olives/oil,) to take away meals from the nearby restaurants? If they cannot get you what you need, they have a friend that can? You are paying a little more but it's fun driving the price down! There is guy (centre picture) who motors around the anchorage twice a day calling "ice screams!"
There is also a lot of activity on the water as one would expect, powerful jet boats cruise the bay, selling there wares, skiing, parasailing etc. Some of the activity is self generated to keep the kids and grand kids occupied.
The local, small beach is well used, it's waterside restaurant, staying open until 7/8 pm daily is very well priced for the locals and us of coarse!. It seems under utilised by the visiting boats for some reason?
It is interesting for us to see how the local peoples religious beliefs are "managed", clearly restrictions applied to the more traditional Muslim women, men have no such visible issues?
Log Entry Friday 1st July - We leave Marmaris and make for Göçek and Fethiye.
We move today after our extended stay in Marmaris Limani, we are well prepared especially with our newly cleaned hull? Due to the profile of our hull from experience we know we can get 25% further on the same fuel if motoring and obviously sail much faster, especially in lighter winds. Our destination is Fethiye Körfezi, a large bay to the east in which sits the towns of Göçek and Fethiye. Within the great bay are numerous anchorages of which we had heard many good reports from our friends and the locals in Marmaris Limani. The forecast was favourable, for what it is worth as we are still evaluating which of the numerous weather sites are the most accurate? It appears to us that due to the terrain the local effects from the mountains and valleys have a significant influence on the wind and it's direction - in simple terms, within reason, locally, the winds do as they please? The winds offshore must follow the tradition prevailing format - enough of those big words, I just found them?
We have approximated 60 miles to cover, depending in which anchorage we stop so our plan is to break the journey up into two days stopping at small cove called Disibilmez Bükü. However this bay is susceptible to southerly winds, so, should there be any issues we will continue on to Fethiye Körfezi. We begin to lift our anchor about 0730, there is little movement around, a gentlemen from one nearby Swiss sailboat bids us farewell. The morning mist still quite evident as we tidy away our gear and make our way out of the Limani.
As we pass of Marmaris a large liner arrives to join another, the local tourist traffic began to emerge - noisy sods! The Neptune Express passes us, this is the vessel Ann and Mum took the Dalyan region, not a very honourable crew, I got both of them back and never saw the three camels I was promised?
The wind is almost nonexistent, we round the lighthouse at Ince Burnu making our way through Sark Bögazi into open water, Rhodes is just visible through the mist.
Visibility does not improve much, too early we guess apart from the odd fishing vessels? It was not long before we could make out sailboats coming from the east, motoring early as not to have to fight the predominant westerlies which soon began to appear to help us on our way.
Within a short time the winds had stiffened from the south west, we were now screaming along most of the time at maximise hull speed of about 8 knots. We soon cross Köcegiz Limani and made it to our intended stop over, the swell could be seen making it's way in but also, we had such good wind it was a shame not to utilise it? Tomorrow was forecast to be lighter winds still, so we decided to continue, we were now coming across many other sailboat heading in our direction. They were probably unaware of it but it was clearly now a race and we were clearly to win. Ann beckoned me to relax and calm down, but it was not to be, we were to get there first!
Unfortunately the mist never cleared but the sailing was good, visibility only improved as we approached land, we were to pass between Kurdögul Br. on the mainland and the island Peksimet Adasi, then turn northish into Fethiye Körfezi.
Once in the bay the wind stiffened further, with local gusts? The sea was now about two meters so we rolled up the genoa and continue on main alone. We watch as most vessels had there own idea's on dealing with the wind strength, we watched one try to continue under full sail, rounding up twice before he reduced sail. Others turned back out of the bay to drop their main sail and continue on under genoa only? Different boats, different skippers all with their own ideas, but we all get there in the end? We checked out a few anchorages before we settled, some too exposed to the winds, others full of charter vessels with more piling in - no thanks? One of the most annoying things we witnessed for the first time was vessels cordoning off alongside areas with ropes across to the shore from their vessel? We saw a large American flagged vessel moored off a small beach, they had lines across the entire area eliminating the possibility of others joining them off that beach? We saw this practice in a couple of places, clearly not an attempt to increase their own stability but to restrict that area to themselves? I felt there should be a way of fining the offenders, the local authorities are quick to fine you apparently, if you tie to a tree, or pump out even grey water, so there must be some one patrolling one would think?
We eventually settled in a small bay called Sarsala Isk, a steep sided ravine, green and very peaceful, nearby a beach, complete with beach cafe, and sailing toys for rent.